Champagne in and around EpernayQ4TK

A recent weekend found us out on a quest to find the ideal champagne in and around Epernay. Our objective was to find bottles with contents having the right balance of top quality, dryness, affordability and tradition.

Thus, we set out for the town of Epernay, an important hub in the Champagne region located about 2 hours or less from Paris. A small city, it is easy to get around with nice pedestrian zones and an awe-inspiring collection of world-class champagne houses. I find Epernay more manageable than Reims, which is a much larger place with more of an urban feel. Three wineries really stood out to me:

Moet et Chandon, founded in 1743, is at the base of the prestigious Avenue de Champagne in Epernay. It still occupies some of the original buildings and is an elegant place with a great tour of the wine cellars. There are roughly 17km (10+ miles) of tunnels carved into the soft limestone rock under the facility, which keeps the wine cool and at a constant temperature year round. Just right for aging! Among other quality wines, Moet et Chandon produces a fine dry (brut) champagne under their “imperial” brand, as well as the famous and very pricey Dom Perignon (from a separate winery).

Alfred Gratien is a smaller house, with a long tradition and a third generation wine-maker in place. Gradually upgrading technologically (thanks to foreign investment), this house is still maintaining traditions like oak barrel aging of the wine as part of the vinification process. Their brut classique is a dry champagne, a fine balance of price and quality! I also like their blanc de blancs, which is made only from white grapes (Chardonnay) and has a fresh and fruity nose. Although a small house, they are exporting increasing volumes to the USA.

A short drive from Epernay is the Mailly winery, which offers a variety of champagne from top growing areas (grand crus). Their brut reserve is a great value and I would highly recommend it. For a splurge, I was very much intrigued by their Echansons champagne, which has a wonderful nose with almonds, citrus and other fruit, and even a hint of vanilla and bread when first opened. From a weekend in Epernay and Reims, and half a dozen tastings, I found Mailly to be tops for my pallet.

This quest was complemented by some very nice meals along the way. One can eat very well in Champagne! (For a very special occasion, I’d recommend Le Grand Cerf, which is a bit pricey, but of excellent quality!)

And, though there are towns named “Bouzy” and “Dizy”, the Champagne region is not just about drink and food. The countryside is beautiful! There are some great hikes and strolls to be had in and around the vineyards, as well as lots of history from Roman times to the two world wars and beyond. A nice outing, not far away from Epernay, is the historic village of Hautvillers. We stopped there to pay homage in the Abbey church where the original Dom Perignon — a Benedictine monk who developed an improved champagne method — was laid to rest in 1715. (Upon realising his discovery, he is said to have exclaimed, “Come quickly, I am drinking the stars.”, but that is probably apocryphal. )

Whether you have an opportunity to visit or simply a chance to have a glass of champagne, Epernay and its environs have something to offer for you!