Southbound to the Loire River

I awoke to the prospect of a gorgeous day this morning and resolved to get out into nature. It is harvest season and a great time to head off on a day trip to the vineyards of the Loire River valley. So off I went spontaneously to Muides-sur-Loire. I have been through the edge of town many times before, but today was a day to stop and explore.

Down on the farm

The first stop for me was the Domaine du Croc du Merle farm, winery, dairy and black-currant jam producer. The winery is located on the edge of the Cheverny wine district and has been in the family since 1794 (i.e., since just after the French Revolution). About 10 hectares (25 acres) are planted in grapes. I tried the white (sauvignon blanc-chardonnay blend), red and rose (gamay-pinot noir-cabernet franc blends). All were light and fruity, very pleasant. I was surprised to be able to try a cabernet sauvignon as well; that variety is not part of the usual offerings in the Cheverny wine district. It was quite smooth and tasty. I would recommend all of these wines, keeping in mind that they are meant to be drunk young. The wines represent a great price-quality value, suitable for casual quaffing.

With my trunk suitably loaded up with wine, cheese and jam, it was time to park the car and head off into town. My first stop was La Chanterelle Restaurant, which overlooks the Loire River. The restaurant is fairly modest in size and I was fortunate to land the last available table. I had a smoked salmon appetizer, with duck breast (magret de canard) for my main course, and local cheeses to finish off. Paired with a glass of local wine, this was a fine repast. Based on this experience, I would recommend La Chanterelle as a good value.

Like a walk in the park

Needless to say, after such a lunch, I was in need of exercise and I set off down the trail along the Loire River. The valley is comprised of a fairly wide floodplain, with levies generously placed to allow for the river’s seasonal fluctuations. The farmland appears quite productive along this bottom land. In the stretch of river valley between Muides and Blois, low rolling hills gently define the edges of the valley.

Today, the river current was strong, perhaps due to recent rains. The water swirled through eddies as it split around an island by Muides. The sky was dark blue with scattered white cotton clouds and it was warm hiking. It struck me as such a privilege to be able to immerse myself in such a wonderful environment!

As I climbed up the bank along the river I could look down and see that the water was fairly clear. Despite the abundant agricultural run off in the area, the aquatic plant life seemed healthy and I could see small schools of fish darting through the water. The health of the local fish population was further confirmed by the presence of a very large flock of cormorants sitting on a sand bar out in the river having a nice break on a warm day. I felt one with them, fat and happy in the afternoon sun.

From Muides to Blois

Having reached the end of the town, it was time to loop back. The settled area is fairly small, with a few centuries-old buildings in the center, surrounded by a few blocks of more recent constructions. There is a nice bike trail along the river, but as I didn’t have mine with me, I headed back to fetch my car.

I drove out along the top of the levee towards Blois. Across from Menars there is a place to stop and admire the view of Mme. Pompadour’s Chateau de Menars. She was the chief mistress of King Louis XV and in 1760 she bought and expanded this grand chateau on the river. Looking at this fine structure and thinking of the poor condition of the general population at that time, it is not surprising that such contrasts fueled tensions and that an uprising later ensued.

Along the way to Blois, there is a large EDF nuclear power plant at Saint Laurent des Eaux. Fortunately, from the south bank of the river, the view of the plant is partly obscured by natural barriers.  I crossed the river at Blois and I doubled back to start the trip towards Paris on the highway. However, I first stopped at a rest area to look back across farm fields at the plant from the north side and make a sketch. Thankfully, from the north side as well, the placement of the nuclear facility — partly surrounded by hills and forests — mitigates some of the visual disruption to the area.

And, with that I was off on my return trip to Paris. Potential gloom at returning to the metropolis was held at bay, however, by the knowledge that the late summer apple season was beginning. I stopped off at La Ferme Viltain and picked several pounds of akane apples. Munching such fresh pickings will help keep me connected to the countryside during the course of the coming week at work… pending a further opportunity to venture forth!

Gallery

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A nice meal at La Chanterelle Restaurant – Smoked Salmon and Salmon Pate Appetizer with Pesto & Balamic Sauce

Belonged to Mme Pompadour, Chief Mistress of King Louis XV. She remodeled it in 1760 to give it the present look.

A partially obscured EDF nuclear electrical plant in St Laurent des Eaux (on the Loire)

Muides-sur-Loire