Author Archives: Doug

The Amazing (Generally) French Highway System

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The French Highway System: A Road to Somewhere

Occasionally, the French find interesting market-oriented ways to deal with strategic challenges. Sometimes they arrive at a capitalist destination in a manner that was not necessarily part of the original plan. A fine example of this is the amazing (generally) French highway system.

Capitalist tendencies

The Normandie Bridge over the Seine near Le Havre
The Normandie Bridge over the Seine near Le Havre (Credit: Pecold / Shutterstock.com)

The autoroute system was established under the direction of the state, which granted concessions to state firms to build specific sections. These firms were largely privatised in recent decades, in some cases with substantial portions of the shares winding up in the hands of institutional investors, employees and small investors. Nowadays, these privatised firms and some emerging competitors from the private sector operate most of the long-haul sections of the system as toll roads. The tolls are generally based on distance travelled and the rates are fairly high compared to what toll roads charge in some countries such as the United States. Only in urban areas and Brittany, do the main highways generally remain in state hands with mostly toll-free operation.

My way is the highway

The amazing thing is that the intercity portion of the system works very well. Despite the heavy presence of the state in the French economy, somehow the government hit upon the right idea of exploiting a market-based solution to further the development and operation of the highway system.

Across most of the intercity network, the roadbed is generally well maintained with wide shoulders. With a legal speed limit of 130 km per hour (80 mph) outside of built-up areas, it is easy to cover distance quickly. Capacity is generally adequate except during peak travel seasons (though, admittedly, traffic can be periodically heavy at other times as well).

Rest stop on way to Nantes

Rest stop on way to Nantes – Accommodations in a non-commercial rest area

There are rest areas every 15 kilometers (10 miles) or so. Many of the rest areas are quiet, non-commercial parks with restrooms, telephones, picnic tables, playgrounds and space to walk dogs. The accommodations in the non-commercial rest areas are basic with unheated restrooms and no hot water. Others areas, at less frequent intervals, are more standard car and truck stops with gas stations and restaurants, heat and hot water.

Yay, infrastructure!

The investment in infrastructure is quite impressive, often implemented with architectural flair. A fine example is the Normandy Bridge across the Seine near La Havre. The various installations are often accented with splashes of color. In some places, there are engineering marvels like the new tunnel in the outer beltway around Paris. With little disruption on the surface, the tunnel cuts under a dense urban area as well as parkland. Built by the construction firm and highway operator Vinci as a toll road, the tunnel uses a duplex approach with North- and Southbound lanes stacked on top of each other in a large tube. The result of such investment is reduced travel time and improved quality of life, all while making a contribution to stimulate the economy.

Beautifully bucolic

View from the wetlands of a rest stop in Picardie

A view of lush farmland, looking across a wetland built into the landscaping of a highway rest area in Picardie

The highways offer an excellent option for exploring the gorgeous French countryside. But, even along the roadway the landscaping is attractive with occasional sculptures and special plantings, and no billboards. As in most countries, the French urban road network may be stressful and challenging to drivers, but out here in the countryside it often feels like one is driving through a postcard setting. Indeed, when travelling across France it pays to budget a bit of extra time for a foray or two off the main road. A surprising number of temptations are situated along the highways, ranging from vineyards to splendid natural sites, from historic monuments to gastronomic wonders.

Conclusion: Time for a Road Trip?

The French highway system is a confirmation that public-private collaboration can indeed make a positive contribution to quality of life. While a country road, less-travelled, can offer many charms and attractions in France, the highway travel to the start of the country road may also be a worthwhile part of the experience (particularly if you plan ahead to avoid peak travel seasons and heavily-utilised routes). Could it be time to hit the road?

 

Mission to Planet DC

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Planet DC

National Zoo Sign

Washington: A National Zoo?

There is something other-worldly about Washington. Power, wealth, poverty, urgency and complacency are in the air. It is disorienting, amazing, distressing. I got a chance to experience this world up close in July thanks to a month-long mission to Planet DC.

Although I travel there often, this was my first extended visit to the city in a couple of decades: a chance to settle in, observe and swim in the sea of local life. It left me in a funk that has continued after my return to Paris. I am still trying to process all that I saw and experienced.

My mission

During July, I had the opportunity to pursue my economic research agenda in Washington, DC, operating as a visiting scholar based at a Federal government agency. I was struck by the dedication and competence of my colleagues there as they pursued their duties.

They believe in their mission and are seeking to improve policies and government operations. In the same spirit, they generously took time to provide me with constructive input and suggestions for advancing my policy research.

Time and again their positive energy amazed me. Theirs is not always an easy lot. Federal employees encounter many daily challenges including consequences of budget cuts, periodically hostile press and politicians, arbitrarily compromised objectives, and stakeholder conflicts, among others issues.

My agenda involved a series of interviews with experts (government, private sector and academic), collection of data, and research to track down various reference materials. I had the opportunity to travel far and wide across the city and to meet folks from various walks of life. To say the least, the city exhibits quite some cultural and economic diversity.

Quest for excellence

As a young Peace Corps volunteer in Burkina Faso (West Africa) broiling under the intense mid-day sun of the hot season, I discovered the joys of pulling up a chair in a shady spot outside of our mud hut and reading. Not much else was going to happen until things cooled off. It was during such a season back in 1983 that I found the time to read Robert Pirsig’s Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance. I had never read anything like it. The book describes a motorcycle trip across the United States and an inquiry about values. A central theme for me concerned the importance of the quest for excellence, a message that has stuck with me since.

As the political capital of the largest national economy in the world, Washington is certainly in the position to cultivate excellence. There are some impressive manifestations of this. To cite a couple of examples from my recent mission:

  • Library of Congress – During the course of my research I had the opportunity to visit the Library of Congress, which is certainly a fine historical example. The Thomas Jefferson Building (1897) is a world-class architectural gem. I witnessed people from around the world gawking at the grandeur of reading room. Moreover, the collection itself is also extremely impressive. I took advantage of this to track down references that I’d been unable to obtain in Europe.
  • US Botanic Garden – A more recent example of such excellence is the renovation of the US Botanic Garden, which included establishment of the adjacent national garden. The US Botanic Garden, originally established in 1820, is just up Independence Avenue from the Capital Building and Library of Congress. The renovation of the greenhouse, a Bartholdi fountain (Bartholdi also sculpted the Statue of Liberty), and gardens greatly moved me. Completed in the past decade, this effort resulted in a facility that provides for education, art, entertainment and, in my view, spiritual renewal. It is a place of beauty and yet somehow the renewal was accomplished in a time of tight budgets and partisan in-fighting.

Of course there are many, many more examples across the city. Such examples demonstrate that there can be a positive role for government in contributing to our advancement directly or in partnership with the private sector and non-governmental organisations.

But, on the other hand…

Despite encounters with excellence as I wandered through the world of Washington, there were nonetheless some concerns nagging at me everywhere in the background. These concerns started with the impression that part of the infrastructure is in poor condition. They grew as various contacts and news items pointed to social challenges, civil rights issues, undue impediments to legitimate businesses, environmental degradation and other pressing issues. Some are local, while others are a reflection of national malaise. Although Washington came through the Great Recession with less damage than some other parts of the US, it is not fully insulated and the challenges are visible.

Storm Clouds over the Old Executive Office Building

Storm Clouds over the Old Executive Office Building

My concerns deepened after an admonition from my host to be careful during my commutes into town. He had been stabbed in a mugging a while ago and held up at gunpoint another time. As an economist I am concerned with such problems and their many social and economic roots, but I am not used to facing them as a personal threat on a daily basis.

Then, there was the metro. I recalled the system with an initial sense of pride, thinking back to my days in DC during the 1980s. Nowadays, however, it is only just getting a much needed makeover after years of relative neglect. In July, during a brutal 10 day heat spell, I discovered that the system operators were no longer maintaining the air conditioning on the cars where it had broken down. Commuters were faced with the choice of running from car to car in search of A/C or potentially having to tough it out in a crowded, non-air conditioned carriage.

Next came political issues. A few weeks after my arrival, Bill Moyer’s had an interesting show on Washington, DC, based on a very troubling interview with Mark Leibovich. Leibovich recently authored “This Town“, a book about the workings of the place. He highlights the problem of the rotating door in DC between policy making and lobbying, political fund-raising and interest peddling. He highlights what is essentially a disconnect between the objectives of many of the powers-that-be and the national interest. The insiders with ties to either of the main political parties have access to potentially large incomes if they work on behalf of various vested interest groups. Thus, there are disincentives to tackle issues head-on. Unfortunately, in the interview Leibovich does not offer much in the way of solutions.

Partly as a consequence of the insiders game, progress to obvious problems comes slowly. Outside of the political realm, I have the impression that many average folks are hunkered down living busy lives and, in many cases, dealing with some financial stress. Several news items came up during my stay that underscored the problem. One item showed labor income declining as a share of national output while inequality increased:   see this article from the Federal Reserve Bank in Cleveland. After progressing somewhat in the 1990s, median household has been falling significantly. Another item came from a study by the Economic Policy Institute, showing US workers putting in more hours in a effort to maintain incomes. Then, more recently, Robert Putnam presented an op ed on Crumbling American Dreams using his home town as an illustration.

There were other national news items that added to the gloom:

  • US Health – Recently, a spreadsheet from the Organsation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) caught my eye: OECD Health Data. New data on health developments in 34 wealthy countries of the world were just released. The United States was at the top of the list for healthcare expenditure, spending some 17.7% of GDP in 2011 (GDP is an indicator of our economic output). This was nearly twice the health expenditure in OECD countries on average: 9.3% of GDP. Moreover, US healthcare expenditure is far ahead of the other countries: second place goes to Netherlands, but even they spent just 11.9% of GDP.
    What do we get for our large expenditure? In 2011, American women on average at birth have a life expectancy of 81.1 years, whereas in the average OECD country, women can expect 82.8 years. For American men, the figure was 76.3 years, whereas the average OECD country offered its men the prospect of a life expectancy of 77.3 years. In Netherlands, women and men at least have something to show for their above-average health expenditure. That is, they have above-average life expectancy: 83.1 years for women and 79.4 for men. In the US, we are paying nearly twice as much as the OECD average and our lives on average are shorter by a year or more.
  • Climate change – Then, there were several items on climate change developments. One that really came as a wake up call was authored by James Hansen et al (2013) on Climate Sensitivity, Sea Level and CO2. The authors provide compelling evidence that the damage from the C02 already pumped into the atmosphere is not yet fully manifest due to lagging responses from some natural systems, and that if we continue we can expect significant impacts in terms of sea level rise and disequilibrium in key natural systems. According to these authors, if we persist in use of all available fossil fuels, we can expect this: “Burning all fossil fuels, we conclude, would make much of the planet uninhabitable by humans, thus calling into question strategies that emphasize adaptation to climate change.”
  • Voting Rights – There were other news items from several states on voter disenfranchisement in the aftermath of the Supreme Court’s invalidation of a key portion of the Voting Rights Act. Taking North Carolina as an example, the Huffington Post reported on proposed changes that eliminated college students’ ability to use their state-issued student IDs for voting purposes, reduced early voting by a week, eliminated same-day registration, ended pre-registration for 16- and 17-year-olds and a student civics program, killed an annual state-sponsored voter registration drive and lessened the amount of public reporting required for so-called dark money groups, also known as 501(c)(4)s.
  • Impediments to business – It is not all a bed of roses for business either. There are bureaucratic and regulatory barriers and other challenges related to government dysfunction. One example can be found in the World Bank’s Doing Business Indicators.  The “paying tax” indicator shows that the administrative burdens in the United States are far in excess of other leading countries (and, it is not just the tax rates, but also the hours it takes to comply administratively with the requirements). According to this tax burden indicator, the United States ranks 69th among the world economies, just below Madagascar and just ahead of Mongolia. Hardly a leadership position!

These matters are serious and getting clear information about each issue is not always easy. One cannot rely on the evening news for balanced reporting and it takes a bit of digging to identify a reliable source of factual information. Still, the cumulative effect of this news flow is daunting. I can certainly appreciate the urge to keep one’s head down and to press on with more immediate daily challenges. Unfortunately, a failure to respond to some of these issues will entail heavier costs if one waits to address them later.

Next steps?

This is not to say that I am pessimistic. I was encouraged to find people inside and outside of government working to assess problems empirically and seeking a factual basis for discussing policy options and responses. In addition, there is an emerging debate in the United States that recognises the limits of empirical assessment and the need to have an open debate about the subjective aspects of some policy questions such as dealing with inequality. For example, see this paper on income inequality by G. Mankiw, a former Bush administration official. I don’t agree with all of his suppositions or conclusions, but it is a useful starting point recognising the role of preferences. It has unleashed a helpful debate.

I think we also need to be open to consideration of the role of government as part of the solution. This was underscored to me upon my return to France. I spent my Saturday here running errands on foot, using public transportation and walking to shops past some wonderful public spaces: a forest park, a new fountain, newly repaved roads, and a public-private redevelopment zone downtown. France has many economic problems of its own. For example, the state is large and weighs heavily on entrepreneurship. But, the French example does underscore the benefits of having some public investment in areas where there is a need for a coherent system-wide plan or where there is a market failure. We should not rule this out now in the United States. There are positive examples in the US as well: for example, the initial development steps for the Internet. Government has contributed on occasion to attainment of excellence!

Reviewing the list of issues discussed above, I certainly seems that there is need for action. In the United States, we need to break out of our complacency. We need to challenge the system to do better and to be more responsive to unmet needs. We should not accept business as usual in “This Town”. And, once we have decided that there is a role for government in provision of a given service, then we should insist on government’s quest for excellence in the matter. Why should we the citizens and taxpayers accept anything less?

 

 

Silver Spring, Wine and Peace

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A stroll around Silver Spring

In 1984, we moved to Silver Spring, Maryland, settling into an apartment right up against the boundary line with Washington, DC. Recently, I had an occasion to visit again and took the opportunity to set out on a walking tour around our old haunts in the downtown.

Silly springs?

Our home was right around the corner from the site for which the town was named: the Silver Spring. Although the town is often called Silver Springs (and, on rare occasions, even “Silly Springs”), its actual name refers to a singular spring. The spring still exists on the edge of town in a small patch of green called Acorn Park. The poor spring struggles on, forlorn and neglected, producing just a tiny bit of humidity. In the decades since we moved away, developments and paving all around have cut off the replenishment of its aquifer and nowadays the Silver Spring is nearly dry.

The Silver Spring

The Silver Spring

According to the historical marker on the site, the spring was discovered in 1840 by Francis Preston Blair and daughter Elizabeth while touring the woods on horseback. They saw sunlight reflecting on mica sand in what turned out to be the spring and named it accordingly.

Wine and peace?

Silver Spring has been transformed in the years since we lived there. Downtown has been rebuilt with new housing, shops and commercial activity all around. On a recent Sunday part of the downtown was blocked off, vendors were selling food and kids were running around in a fountain that sprays water up from holes in the plaza pavement. Funky music played via a PA system and the atmosphere was festive.

Further on I came to an area where there has been an influx of Ethiopians. Although it is near downtown, parts of it have some resemblance to Addis Ababa with signs in Amharic and passersby conversing fluently in the language. Ethiopian flags, coffee and food are all around. The Addis Ababa Restaurant on Fenton Street has a good reputation. However, on my visit this weekend, I had another destination in mind.

I continued my walking tour of our old neighborhood and, based on a recommendation from local friends, wound up in the Adega Wine Cellar and Cafe. ( Sadly now closed, Feb. 2017.) The cafe serves up some interesting sandwiches and I had quite a decent crabcake. As it was a hot and humid day, I parked myself at a table in the air conditioning to sketch and enjoy a glass of Koina Riesling. I received a generous pour and savored the cool, refreshing wine, which had a nice acidity, with a hint of citrus and sweetness on my palate.

The Velvet Devil and a few other selections at the wine shop

The Velvet Devil and a few other selections at the wine shop

While sketching, I was intrigued by the wine selection on the shelves around me, including a bottle labelled The Velvet Devil (which I placed on my agenda to try on a future visit). Although the shop is not particularly large, Adega’s has an interesting range of wines with selections that appear to offer good values from key wine regions around the world.

On a lazy Sunday afternoon, Adega’s turns into a kind of wine bar as folks come in for a glass and conversation. Next to me sat a few young Frenchmen quaffing a bottle of a big red. I enjoyed hearing their banter blend with the Spanish, English and Chinese being spoken by some others around. It seemed that although these folks were quite diverse, they would all agree on at least thing: a cool glass of wine on a hot day was a splendid idea.

Stop Sign - Takoma Park, MD

Stop Sign – Takoma Park, MD

Setting out to continue my walk, I had a feeling that perhaps there was some hope after all for most folks around this world to get along, at least as long as the supply of Koina Riesling and big red wines holds out. As I headed back to my friends’ home in Takoma Park, a stop sign gave me some further advice for helping along the cause of peace: STOP EVIL. Makes sense to me!

 Map of Silver Spring

 

Disruption in Paris; Smooth Sailing in Berlin, Geneva and Lausanne

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Traveling through a slice of Central Europe

Despite a French transportation strike, I managed to fly out of Paris this week for meetings in Berlin and Geneva, with a side trip to Lausanne. While some transport workers proclaimed opposition to further European integration, it felt to me as if they were actually promoting European dis-integration. Airline has cancelled all of my original flights. But, Lufthansa staff kindly worked with me to find alternatives that got me where I needed to go. In the end, I came away feeling pretty good about the world. I’m pretty sure that the arrival of warm and sunny weather also contributed to my positive disposition.

A dash through Berlin

I get to Berlin every couple of years and with each visit I feel a little more attached to the city. This sentiment is actually helped along by a personal connection. In the 1880s, my great grandfather emigrated to the US from Berlin. He had been an organist in a large church there. So, the city figures somewhere in my family lore.

Berlin is a city with bountiful green space, lakes and flowing water, cultural opportunities (reasonably-priced opera tickets!), history and world class museums, plus quality food and drink. Not to mention shopping for those so inclined. It maintains an excellent public transportation system.

Whenever I visit I am struck by the dynamism of the place. Following reunification of East and West Berlin in 1989, the city set to work transforming and integrating itself. Two decades later the community has accomplished substantial renewal. Areas that were formerly cut off or disrupted in the communist past have revived as cultural centers (e.g., around Potsdamer Platz), pedestrian zones (e.g., around Nikolai church), or tourist zones (e.g., around Brandenburger gate).

But, parts of the city remain large construction sites as the renewal continues. Cranes dot the skyline. A controversial project to rebuild the Berliner Schloss — a former royal palace in the city center (ruined in WWII) — has just gotten underway after several  years of debate. The metro system is expanding. New commercial construction continues apace. Alas, leaving much still to explore, my schedule indicated it was time to depart for Geneva and Lausanne.

  • Recommendation: We had a nice meal outdoors at the Julchen Hoppe restaurant on the edge of the Nikolai Quarter of the city. Our meal included traditional foods and decent wine at a reasonable price. Very nice wild mushroom soup and fresh asparagus, fish and fowl main courses.

Swiss quality in Geneva and Lausanne

Geneva

I have written about Geneva in an earlier post, but there is more. This time I had business at several international organizations including the World Trade Organization (WTO).

I am always amazed at the wonderful headquarters of the WTO, the William Rappard Center, which was built in the 1920s to house the International Labour Organization (ILO). At a time when communist revolution was in the air, the ILO was developed to address labor concerns and demonstrate that market economies could deliver better quality of life for workers. The original building has some palatial features, without being too extravagant. Nonetheless, the fountains, sculpture and murals reflect a blend of expressionist and classical art that honors the value of labor in fueling economic growth and well-being.

During this visit, construction had blocked the main entrance and I wound up being channeled through the Chinese garden that is on the grounds. This was my first visit to the garden and it provided a pleasant and unexpected entry to the facility. That evening Geneva was radiant in the late-day sun and early summer weather. I took advantage of the fine evening to stroll along the Rhone and Lake Leman, before deciding to eat outdoors at a local Chinese restaurant in honor of the WTO garden.

Lausanne

During my stay, I made an afternoon visit for a meeting at IMD, a prestigious business school in the city of Lausanne. After all of the transportation disruption in France, the train ride over to Lausanne on the Swiss rail system provided a welcome contrast. The trains over and back departed in a timely fashion, traveling quickly and sailing along the rails with remarkably smooth suspension and quiet interiors. So nice!

Lausanne is a small city set in gorgeous countryside on Lake Leman. The Alps rise from the water on the opposite shore. Between Geneva and Lausanne, vineyards and farms dot the lake shore amidst various small towns. I took the metro from the Lausanne train station down to the lake. Due to the slope of the hill the metro is built on quite an angle, which was rather surprising to a flat-lander like me. I stopped for a soft drink at a local cafe on Lausanne harbor. Inertia nearly got the better of me and I had to strain against the warm, sunny, lazy afternoon feeling in order to get to my meeting on time.

Paris – Using Charm to Put Things Right

My return to Paris proved mercifully uneventful. The transport strikes had passed and the grey, cool dampness had moved on in favor of sunny weather. I pulled out the grill for a BBQ with friends and took a fresh look at Paris. As usual, after disrupting my life and travel once again, Paris turned on its charm and won back my affection.

Photo from Berlin

Berlin Cathedral and TV Tower, (C) Doug Lippoldt, 2006

Berlin Cathedral and TV Tower, Photo (C) Doug Lippoldt, 2006

Photos from Geneva and Lausanne

Justice, by Luc Jaggi, 1925, Geneva, Photo (c) Doug Lippoldt, 2013

Lausanne Harbour – 52 swans, (c) Doug Lippoldt, 2013

(Copyright, Doug, 2013, 2021)

Brittany – Sunshine on the Rhuys Peninsula

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Escape to Brittany

Thanks to a kind invitation from a friend in Brittany, the possibility to escape for a few days  from the wet, grey Parisian Winter and Spring beckoned. And, so, we set out from Paris for the Rhuys Peninsula on the Atlantic coast on the south side of Brittany. Our home base would be the little village of Penvins, which is surrounded by gorgeous countryside and sea. This proved to be an ideal starting point for exploring the nearby towns of Port Navalo, Saint Gildas, Sarzeau and Vannes, as well as the nature preserve and castle at Suscinio and the old tide-powered grain mill at Pen Castle.

Notre Dame de la Cote - Penvins

Notre Dame de la Cote – Penvins: This little church stands on a modest spit of land jutting out into the Atlantic. The builders chose a design resembling a Greek cross, which enabled it to better resist the seasonal winds. According to a marker by the church: on this site previously stood a Gallo-Roman chapel, which superseded a even older iron age religious site.

One is never far from water on this little peninsula, a fact that heavily influences the environment. The air is clean and fresh, at times windy. Several old windmills and a number of immense new ones are strategically located to take advantage of the gusts. From hiking and bird watching to swimming and sailing, people orient their free time to the coastal outdoors. Fresh local seafood can be found in the open-air markets and on the restaurant menus. Wetlands have been preserved. Development is generally of the low-rise variety.

The connection to the sea is present in the culture. Via their harbors, the coastal towns face outward towards the sea. Casual conversation often turns towards boats, seafood or water-related activity. We visited several old churches with model ships or other art with sea motifs.

Penvins: The city hall is a little building at a crossroads in the center of town. A sign out front directs visitors to the beach!

Penvins: The city hall is a little building at a crossroads in the center of town. A sign out front directs visitors to the beach!

The legacy of long human settlement — spanning thousands of years — is also very present. Neolithic people left behind numerous rock monuments such as menhir and dolmen. They appear to have thrived here, prior to the arrival of the Celts including the Bretons. The waves of subsequent immigration brought further development. Today, many towns boast expansive historic centers dating back to the early middle ages.

The Celtic culture blends with the French. A minority of folks still speak the Breton language, which is related to Welsh. While the language suffered from suppression by Francophiles during the past century, it is now enjoying a modest revival thanks to educational efforts and cultural programming via the media. More broadly, the Breton culture continues to influence the atmosphere through its music, cuisine and other cultural presentations (including the proudly displayed Breton flag).

This spring the Rhuys peninsula was a particularly wondrous sight for us. We were restored by the sunshine, wildflowers, clean air and hikes in nature, not to mention local cuisine and cider. Even in the course of a short visit, such a place can help one to regain some perspective on what matters. I suspect that given a bit more time there, one might rediscover a sustainable feeling of serenity.

Photo tour of the Rhuys Peninsula from Penvins to Port Navalo

Use arrows under the gallery to scroll up or down and display additional photos. If you have trouble viewing the display, then click here to go to the page on the blog: Permalink.

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Recommendations

Creperies

  • Les Salines – 11, rue Ker An Pou, 56370 Penvins: Fine creperie in the center of the village, with outdoor seating. Try the caramel-salted butter crepe for dessert. Note: hours vary by season. Tel. 02.97.67.44.61
  • Avel Vor – 4, place Richemont, 56370 Sarzeau: Set on the market square next to St. Saturnin church, this restaurant serves crispy and creative crepes of excellent quality. Try the scallops (St. Jacques) and creme crepe for a main course. Outdoor seating for nice weather.

Cider

  • St. Armel Cider – This award-winning cider is available at La Maison du Cidre (Musée du Cidre), Route de Lann-Vrihan (RD 780 – Axe Vannes-Sarzeau – Rond point du Hézo), 56450 Le Hézo, Tél./Fax : 02 97 26 47 40. Fine “cidre brut” at a reasonable price! 

Google Map of Brittany, with the Rhuys Peninsula indicated by the red marker


 

 

A Forest Preserve For Paris – Verrieres Forest

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Heading out to Verrieres Forest (Forêt de Verrières)

Former Artillery Position - Chestnut Grove (Ancienne batterie de la Chataigneraie)

Former Artillery Position – Chestnut Grove
(Ancienne batterie de la Chataigneraie)

Today was a grey, drizzly kind of day around Paris, so we set off to do some exploration of the Forêt de Verrières outside of the city. The forest sits atop a hill (172 meters, or 574 feet, high) located just alongside Paris’ outer beltway, about 16 kilometers (10 miles) south of the Eiffel Tower.

It is an ancient woods. There is archaeological evidence of human activity dating back into prehistory. Over the centuries several chateaux have stood on these grounds. At various times the land belonged to the nearby Abbey of Saint Germain. King Louis XIII set the area up as royal hunting grounds in the 1600s. After a couple of battles with Prussians (1815 and 1870), the government set aside part of the grounds for artillery defenses. The military still holds a small parcel of land near the middle of the forest.

Verrieres Forest, Today

Urbanization and road construction have gobbled up sizable chunks of the original forest. Nowadays, the forest covers about 576 hectares (ca. 1425 acres), which is about half of its historic size. This has had an impact on wildlife. Big deer species and wild boar have disappeared in the face of fragmentation of the forest land and increased use by people and their dogs. A few smaller deer (chevreuils) may inhabit the woods, as well as foxes, rabbits, weasels and smaller critters. These animals benefit from the ban on hunting in the woods that has been in place since 1818.

Today we did not see any such wildlife, rather it seemed to be a day for the birds. There were all sorts of song birds, woodpeckers, ravens and crows, among others. The drizzle cut down on the number of people in the woods and, with springtime in the air, the birds were singing joyfully. I stopped to record a bit of their chorus: Forest Birds-Verrieres (click here to hear some of these birds).

An Integrated Biological Preserve

Verrieres Forest is characterised by a biologically sheltered situation in an urban environment; 42 hectares of the forest have been classified as an integrated biological preserve, meaning that the land will be protected from human intervention for a long period. This will permit scientific study of the development of a natural ecosystem, one that differs from the surrounding managed forest.

Verrieres Forest is characterized by a biologically sheltered situation in an urban environment; 42 hectares of the forest have been classified as an integrated biological preserve, meaning that the land will be protected from human intervention for a long period. This will permit scientific study of the development of a natural ecosystem, one that differs from the surrounding managed forest.

We soon discovered a further reason why the birds were so happy. In the middle of the forest is a 42 hectare (100 acre) section that the National Forest Office set up in 2005 as a biological reserve (réserve biologique intégrale). All forestry operations are prohibited and entry is discouraged. A dense growth of oaks, chestnuts, ashes, beech and birch has developed.

Such protection for flora and fauna is extremely rare in France. Only just over 1% of the forests in this nation are set aside as preserves. The difference with typical French forests is striking. In the preserve, the underbrush is growing throughout, old trees lay where they fall, birds are everywhere, and it is dark at ground level. It is amazing how much the forest has been transformed in less than 10 years. This stands in contrast to a typical working forest in France, where nature is kept in check.

From Prehistory to the Future

Prehistoric people gathered and worked flint in this area.

Prehistoric people gathered and worked flint in this area.

Our hike carried us from the center of the woods to a former artillery position at the north-east corner of the forest, which has a beautiful view of Paris. We continued along the eastern edge of the woods, where rocks are exposed on the slope and prehistoric people are known to have collected flint to make tools and arrow heads.

As we turned onto the path leading back to our car, we walked along the edge of the biological preserve. When a place combines historical interest and ecological innovation, then it has a good chance of grabbing my attention. This was such a place. The establishment of a biological preserve in the center of a forest just 10 miles from the Eiffel Tower seems almost audacious. It is still in its early days and clearly evolving at a rapid pace. Nature is taking advantage of the offer of peace. I’ll be watching to see what happens next.

Map of Verrieres Forest – La Forêt de Verrières

(Verrieres Forest = bouncing icon; Eiffel Tower and Paris = fixed icon)

If you are having trouble viewing the map, then click this link:

https://www.q4tk.com/2013/05/19/verrieres-forest/

Sketching Viroflay

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Springtime in Viroflay

The transition to Springtime continues to lag here in the Parisian suburbs. Today was cool and a little breezy, with poofy clouds alternating with sunshine. It seemed a perfect time to go out walking, so I loaded my iPad into a day pack and headed out to see what I might find worth sketching in Viroflay.

Hippolyte Maze

Viroflay City Hall ParkThe first thing that caught my eye was the garden behind Viroflay city hall. It was peaceful and the statue of Hippolyte Maze seemed radiant in the afternoon sun. Hippolyte was at various times an academic historian, an elected representative in national government and a regional administrator (préfet). He also dabbled in economics. Among other achievements, he wrote a book entitled the Republic of the United States of America (1869). In addition to some facts about Hippolyte, his monument has three words inscribed on the side: science, humanity, homeland. I’m not sure why these three words were selected, but I read somewhere that Louis Pasteur (i.e., the guy who invented pasteurization, who also lived in the 1800s) once said that “the homeland of science encompasses all of humanity.” Coincidence? Perhaps. But, I’m not so sure.

Saint Eustache

Viroflay Church - Original City HallNext stop came in the center of town. There sits the small church dedicated to Saint Eustache. Dating back to the 12th century, the structure is in good shape, having benefited from a couple of restorations over the centuries. Across the street is a small two-story building that became city hall and the first public school in Viroflay after the French revolution (in 1794, actually). Some other buildings from that period and some of the cobblestone pavement also survive. There is a former water trough for horses and the town has planted a few flower beds. In the sunshine this afternoon, it was a perfect spot to sit and sketch and soak in the historic ambiance.

House of cards?

Viroflay - House of CardsBy now it was getting to be late afternoon and I was about to head home, when I noticed an interesting half-timbered home up a little cobblestone dead-end lane. The home is now rather old and weathered, and the shutters are closed tight. But, what caught my eye was that someone long ago had marked the facade of the home with the symbols for the four suits of cards. It turns out that the four suits (hearts, clubs, spades and diamonds) were first used in French card decks in Rouen and Lyon in the 15th century and later were taken up by the English-speaking world. I am not sure what the connection is to this old home, but it lives on in the facade.

Our house

With that, the time had come to get back home. Our old stone house was built just outside the Viroflay city limits in the late 1800s, around the same time that Hippolyte Maze passed away (he died in 1891). As I headed around to our side yard to do a bit of weeding in the garden before sunset, I was struck by the important role that the various historical sites play in this community. They provide a sort of bridge across the centuries, offering glimpses into the rich history and a measure of continuity across time in this place.

[If you have trouble viewing the images in this blog post, please click this link for a better view: http://wp.me/p2sfPf-nE .]

(Doug, ©2013)

 

 

Champagne – From Troyes to the Marne

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Champagne tour

Champagne is a glorious place, even in lousy weather. It has class. Not the pretentious kind, but rather a classiness that comes from attainment of quality and competence in wine-making and cuisine. The region can take on rustic and down-to-earth airs. But, it can also manifest excellence in presentation, for example in serving a fine meal based largely on local supplies. There is a sense of history and tradition, though this contrasts sometimes with the innovation and technological progress that are also in evidence (where appropriate). The scenery is bucolic and lush. And, of course, there is champagne!

The Aube and Points North

When folks think of Champagne they tend to think first of Reims and Epernay, with the splendid mountain between them surrounded by vineyards, with a branch stretching south to Vertus. But, there is another stretch of authentic Champagne vineyards further south, in the Aube region around Troyes. Long producing champagne-style wines and supplying grapes to the big name houses in Reims and Epernay, the Aube region was officially recognized as being part of the Champagne district in the early 1900s (after a series of revolts known as the Champagne Riots).

Troyes is the main town in the Aube region, as well as the historical capital of Champagne. Already settled in Roman times, Troyes has long been surrounded by wine production. While much of the city was destroyed by various fires in the Middle Ages, there are quite a few half-timbered houses and churches remaining from the 1500s. Looking at a map of the old town, one may notice that it is appropriately shaped like a cork.

The town has had a difficult history with various wars and social upheavals leading to troubles. Attila the Hun was stopped outside of town by a combination of force and compensation. The Jewish population, once thriving (e.g., the famous scholar Rashi established a center there for Talmudic studies in 1070AD), was abused and expelled in Medieval times. In later centuries, a Jewish population was reestablished but then fell victim to terrible oppression during WWII (see photo of the memorial below). After WWII a new synagogue was established in some Medieval buildings in the old town.

The vineyards of Montgueux spread across a small enclave to the west of Troyes, producing chardonnay grapes. The area is recognized on official maps showing designated zones for Champagne  production. Montgueux is a small island of production at some distance from the next officially recognized zones.

Heading north from Troyes one comes to the southern area of the Reims-Epernay champagne district. There is a wonderful chateau in the village of Etoges. It is now a bed and breakfast. A fine dinner can be had at the chateau, served with style in the former orangerie.

From Etoges, the Champagne route can be followed through the hills and vineyards to the town of Vertus, which is home to a number of champagne houses. Heavily damaged over the centuries, Vertus still has a number of remarkable old buildings and some nice parks well-suited for picnics, all set in the ambiance of a successful champagne-producing town. Heading north toward Epernay, the road hugs the cote des blancs district with famous wine towns such as Oger, Avize and Cramant.

Onward to Epernay and the Marne

Epernay is a wonderful town, home to some of the finest champagne houses, many of which are located along Champagne Avenue. Smaller and calmer than Reims, Epernay still radiates class. Many of the producers offer tours of their cellars and tastings, which can make for a very pleasant morning or afternoon, especially when paired with a fine meal at a local establishment.

The Marne River flows along the northern reaches of Epernay and its valley is home to some spectacular vineyards including a number of grand cru and premier cru areas (i.e., top-notch). The abbey in Hautvillers was home to the famous cleric Dom Perignon, who is sometimes considered the legendary father of champagne wines. While that has been challenged, he did in reality develop improved techniques for wine production, making a contribution that is still worthy of praise. We paid hommage to him at the former abbey church.

The vineyards skirting the hillsides to the north of the Marne are some of the best. From Cumieres to Ay to Mutigny one sees famous vintner names inscribed on low stone markers on the edges of their acreage along the roadside. In springtime, the countryside is verdant with forest land and crop fields bordering the vineyards. This week the vines were beginning to bud, a bit later than usual.

Really? Heading back to Paris so soon?

Heading west from Mutigny, we drove along the Marne through beautiful countryside. Flowering trees added splashes of color in the forests, as did the various orchard trees in farms and gardens along the river. The various species of early-leafing trees and plants displayed many contrasting shades of green, making the scenery look like an expressionist painting.

Finally, as we passed through Chatillon-sur-Marne, we knew our Champagne meandering time was coming to the end. As we headed toward the highway home, a statue of Pope Urbain II loomed above us pointing the way and perhaps raising the question as to why anyone would be heading back to the metropolis after such a short visit.

Photo Galleries

Use the arrows at the bottom of each gallery to scroll up or down. Double click to expand a picture. If the galleries do not display, then click on this link: http://wp.me/p2sfPf-mO .

1) From Troyes to Etoges

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2) From Epernay along the Marne

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(Copyright: Doug, 2013)