Category Archives: Food & Wine

Disruption in Paris; Smooth Sailing in Berlin, Geneva and Lausanne

Posted on by

Traveling through a slice of Central Europe

Despite a French transportation strike, I managed to fly out of Paris this week for meetings in Berlin and Geneva, with a side trip to Lausanne. While some transport workers proclaimed opposition to further European integration, it felt to me as if they were actually promoting European dis-integration. Airline has cancelled all of my original flights. But, Lufthansa staff kindly worked with me to find alternatives that got me where I needed to go. In the end, I came away feeling pretty good about the world. I’m pretty sure that the arrival of warm and sunny weather also contributed to my positive disposition.

A dash through Berlin

I get to Berlin every couple of years and with each visit I feel a little more attached to the city. This sentiment is actually helped along by a personal connection. In the 1880s, my great grandfather emigrated to the US from Berlin. He had been an organist in a large church there. So, the city figures somewhere in my family lore.

Berlin is a city with bountiful green space, lakes and flowing water, cultural opportunities (reasonably-priced opera tickets!), history and world class museums, plus quality food and drink. Not to mention shopping for those so inclined. It maintains an excellent public transportation system.

Whenever I visit I am struck by the dynamism of the place. Following reunification of East and West Berlin in 1989, the city set to work transforming and integrating itself. Two decades later the community has accomplished substantial renewal. Areas that were formerly cut off or disrupted in the communist past have revived as cultural centers (e.g., around Potsdamer Platz), pedestrian zones (e.g., around Nikolai church), or tourist zones (e.g., around Brandenburger gate).

But, parts of the city remain large construction sites as the renewal continues. Cranes dot the skyline. A controversial project to rebuild the Berliner Schloss — a former royal palace in the city center (ruined in WWII) — has just gotten underway after several  years of debate. The metro system is expanding. New commercial construction continues apace. Alas, leaving much still to explore, my schedule indicated it was time to depart for Geneva and Lausanne.

  • Recommendation: We had a nice meal outdoors at the Julchen Hoppe restaurant on the edge of the Nikolai Quarter of the city. Our meal included traditional foods and decent wine at a reasonable price. Very nice wild mushroom soup and fresh asparagus, fish and fowl main courses.

Swiss quality in Geneva and Lausanne

Geneva

I have written about Geneva in an earlier post, but there is more. This time I had business at several international organizations including the World Trade Organization (WTO).

I am always amazed at the wonderful headquarters of the WTO, the William Rappard Center, which was built in the 1920s to house the International Labour Organization (ILO). At a time when communist revolution was in the air, the ILO was developed to address labor concerns and demonstrate that market economies could deliver better quality of life for workers. The original building has some palatial features, without being too extravagant. Nonetheless, the fountains, sculpture and murals reflect a blend of expressionist and classical art that honors the value of labor in fueling economic growth and well-being.

During this visit, construction had blocked the main entrance and I wound up being channeled through the Chinese garden that is on the grounds. This was my first visit to the garden and it provided a pleasant and unexpected entry to the facility. That evening Geneva was radiant in the late-day sun and early summer weather. I took advantage of the fine evening to stroll along the Rhone and Lake Leman, before deciding to eat outdoors at a local Chinese restaurant in honor of the WTO garden.

Lausanne

During my stay, I made an afternoon visit for a meeting at IMD, a prestigious business school in the city of Lausanne. After all of the transportation disruption in France, the train ride over to Lausanne on the Swiss rail system provided a welcome contrast. The trains over and back departed in a timely fashion, traveling quickly and sailing along the rails with remarkably smooth suspension and quiet interiors. So nice!

Lausanne is a small city set in gorgeous countryside on Lake Leman. The Alps rise from the water on the opposite shore. Between Geneva and Lausanne, vineyards and farms dot the lake shore amidst various small towns. I took the metro from the Lausanne train station down to the lake. Due to the slope of the hill the metro is built on quite an angle, which was rather surprising to a flat-lander like me. I stopped for a soft drink at a local cafe on Lausanne harbor. Inertia nearly got the better of me and I had to strain against the warm, sunny, lazy afternoon feeling in order to get to my meeting on time.

Paris – Using Charm to Put Things Right

My return to Paris proved mercifully uneventful. The transport strikes had passed and the grey, cool dampness had moved on in favor of sunny weather. I pulled out the grill for a BBQ with friends and took a fresh look at Paris. As usual, after disrupting my life and travel once again, Paris turned on its charm and won back my affection.

Photo from Berlin

Berlin Cathedral and TV Tower, (C) Doug Lippoldt, 2006

Berlin Cathedral and TV Tower, Photo (C) Doug Lippoldt, 2006

Photos from Geneva and Lausanne

Justice, by Luc Jaggi, 1925, Geneva, Photo (c) Doug Lippoldt, 2013

Lausanne Harbour – 52 swans, (c) Doug Lippoldt, 2013

(Copyright, Doug, 2013, 2021)

Champagne – From Troyes to the Marne

Posted on by

Champagne tour

Champagne is a glorious place, even in lousy weather. It has class. Not the pretentious kind, but rather a classiness that comes from attainment of quality and competence in wine-making and cuisine. The region can take on rustic and down-to-earth airs. But, it can also manifest excellence in presentation, for example in serving a fine meal based largely on local supplies. There is a sense of history and tradition, though this contrasts sometimes with the innovation and technological progress that are also in evidence (where appropriate). The scenery is bucolic and lush. And, of course, there is champagne!

The Aube and Points North

When folks think of Champagne they tend to think first of Reims and Epernay, with the splendid mountain between them surrounded by vineyards, with a branch stretching south to Vertus. But, there is another stretch of authentic Champagne vineyards further south, in the Aube region around Troyes. Long producing champagne-style wines and supplying grapes to the big name houses in Reims and Epernay, the Aube region was officially recognized as being part of the Champagne district in the early 1900s (after a series of revolts known as the Champagne Riots).

Troyes is the main town in the Aube region, as well as the historical capital of Champagne. Already settled in Roman times, Troyes has long been surrounded by wine production. While much of the city was destroyed by various fires in the Middle Ages, there are quite a few half-timbered houses and churches remaining from the 1500s. Looking at a map of the old town, one may notice that it is appropriately shaped like a cork.

The town has had a difficult history with various wars and social upheavals leading to troubles. Attila the Hun was stopped outside of town by a combination of force and compensation. The Jewish population, once thriving (e.g., the famous scholar Rashi established a center there for Talmudic studies in 1070AD), was abused and expelled in Medieval times. In later centuries, a Jewish population was reestablished but then fell victim to terrible oppression during WWII (see photo of the memorial below). After WWII a new synagogue was established in some Medieval buildings in the old town.

The vineyards of Montgueux spread across a small enclave to the west of Troyes, producing chardonnay grapes. The area is recognized on official maps showing designated zones for Champagne  production. Montgueux is a small island of production at some distance from the next officially recognized zones.

Heading north from Troyes one comes to the southern area of the Reims-Epernay champagne district. There is a wonderful chateau in the village of Etoges. It is now a bed and breakfast. A fine dinner can be had at the chateau, served with style in the former orangerie.

From Etoges, the Champagne route can be followed through the hills and vineyards to the town of Vertus, which is home to a number of champagne houses. Heavily damaged over the centuries, Vertus still has a number of remarkable old buildings and some nice parks well-suited for picnics, all set in the ambiance of a successful champagne-producing town. Heading north toward Epernay, the road hugs the cote des blancs district with famous wine towns such as Oger, Avize and Cramant.

Onward to Epernay and the Marne

Epernay is a wonderful town, home to some of the finest champagne houses, many of which are located along Champagne Avenue. Smaller and calmer than Reims, Epernay still radiates class. Many of the producers offer tours of their cellars and tastings, which can make for a very pleasant morning or afternoon, especially when paired with a fine meal at a local establishment.

The Marne River flows along the northern reaches of Epernay and its valley is home to some spectacular vineyards including a number of grand cru and premier cru areas (i.e., top-notch). The abbey in Hautvillers was home to the famous cleric Dom Perignon, who is sometimes considered the legendary father of champagne wines. While that has been challenged, he did in reality develop improved techniques for wine production, making a contribution that is still worthy of praise. We paid hommage to him at the former abbey church.

The vineyards skirting the hillsides to the north of the Marne are some of the best. From Cumieres to Ay to Mutigny one sees famous vintner names inscribed on low stone markers on the edges of their acreage along the roadside. In springtime, the countryside is verdant with forest land and crop fields bordering the vineyards. This week the vines were beginning to bud, a bit later than usual.

Really? Heading back to Paris so soon?

Heading west from Mutigny, we drove along the Marne through beautiful countryside. Flowering trees added splashes of color in the forests, as did the various orchard trees in farms and gardens along the river. The various species of early-leafing trees and plants displayed many contrasting shades of green, making the scenery look like an expressionist painting.

Finally, as we passed through Chatillon-sur-Marne, we knew our Champagne meandering time was coming to the end. As we headed toward the highway home, a statue of Pope Urbain II loomed above us pointing the way and perhaps raising the question as to why anyone would be heading back to the metropolis after such a short visit.

Photo Galleries

Use the arrows at the bottom of each gallery to scroll up or down. Double click to expand a picture. If the galleries do not display, then click on this link: http://wp.me/p2sfPf-mO .

1) From Troyes to Etoges

[flagallery gid=19 name=Gallery]

..

2) From Epernay along the Marne

[flagallery gid=20 name=Gallery]

 

(Copyright: Doug, 2013)

Aachen – A Medieval Gem

Posted on by

20121223-213437.jpg

Aachen, Germany, is a wonderful small city near the border with Belgium and Netherlands. Charlemagne, king of the Franks made Aachen his capital in the 790s, in part because of the warm springs that are to be found there. His empire united the two halves of the Frankish people, both the Latin and Germanic oriented populations. Even today, the French and German peoples count Aachen as part of their heritage (though the French call it Aix-la-Chapelle).

However, even though Aachen is just a few hours drive from Paris, it has much different feel. Coming from Paris, the signs along the highway already shift from French to German a few kilometers before reaching the Belgian-German border. (There are a few German-speaking towns in Belgium.)

Once in Aachen, we are always struck by the restaurants, cafes, pubs and bakeries and the obvious gastronomic contrasts with those in our hometown in France. In Aachen, the food and drink are tuned to central European preferences and sensibilities. The beer offering shifts away from the sour and strong brews of Belgium (or sometimes watery beers of France) and towards the lighter but flavorful Pilsners and Koelsches. Goose and schnitzel turn up on the menus. Savory rolls of rye or whole wheat are to be had, along with kaiser rolls decked out with lox, onions and lettuce.

Aachen’s center has a comfortable feel with an extensive pedestrian zone that meanders among the old stones of the medieval city. It offers a balanced mix of museums and sites of historical interest, eating and drinking establishments, shops and parks.

The chapel from Charlemagne’s palace survives and forms the center of the current cathedral. It may be that one of the towers of city hall incorporates another part of the palace, but in any event the city hall is a splendid old structure in its own right. There are several of the original city gates still standing, as well as other interesting architectural features in some of the houses and shops. Together, these structures give Aachen an old and dark, but warm atmosphere.

Aachen has become a traditional destination for my family just prior to Christmas. Each December (through 23 Dec), there is a sprawling Christmas market along the pedestrian zones. The city is decorated with holiday lights and greenery. There is a festive atmosphere with convivial crowds of happy people patronizing stands selling hot mulled wine, stollen, cookies, bratwurst and potato pancakes, as well as all sorts of holiday gifts. Many stands offer handmade and artisanal products. There are brass bands and piped in Christmas music in the city squares, as well as choral presentations at the cathedral and other churches. The weather is often lousy, but the Christmas decorations brighten everything, regardless. It is wunderbar!

Recommendations:

Nobis: fine bakery; eat in (self-serve) or carry out; great for lunch (nice sandwiches), or coffee & cakes, special cookies, gingerbread, and other baked treats.

Rose am Dom: nice restaurant in an old inn (14th century) serving hearty, quality meals. In season, they serve game such as duck, goose, wild boar and venison as well as wild mushroom soup.

Aachener Dom (cathedral): a wonderful architectural gem built to house relics of the Virgin Mary. The heart of the structure is Charlemagne’s octagonal palace chapel, with an amazing, newly restored interior with elements from various periods. Take the docent tour, which offers interesting history and explanations, as well as a chance to see the throne of the Frankish kings possibly dating back to Charlemagne’s time.

Cathedral treasury museum: this is also worth a visit! It contains many interesting artifacts and relics including a marvelous reliquary with part of Charlemagne’s arm (bones).

City hall: Tourists can visit this medieval structure and see the great hall and several other fine rooms. Be sure to check out the city council chamber, which includes portraits of Napoleon and Josephine (gifts from the Napoleon to the city).

Aquis Grana Hotel This hotel is very centrally located, near the cathedral and Nobis, and offers a fine breakfast. Park your car in the city garage across the street and leave it there during your stay. Aachen is a city to explore on foot.

Impressions and photos from a visit to Korea

Posted on by

Impressions and photos from a visit to Korea

Rounding out my recent series of blog posts, I would like to offer a few further impressions and photos from a visit to Korea (Republic of Korea). During our trip, we toured the periphery of the country and then spent a couple of days in the center (Andong) and a few days in Seoul, as well as taking a tour to the border with North Korea (i.e., the demilitarized zone, DMZ). Based on these travels, I can recommend the Haerang Rail Cruise and Rak Ko Jae traditional B&B stays to anyone seeking an authentic experience in Korea.

We have a few connections to Korea through my work (Korea joined the OECD in 1996), my wife’s family (who lived in Korea for several years), and via friends. This gave us some insights and notions as to what to expect, as well as some contacts. Still, Korea is developing and changing rapidly, so much of what we encountered was new to us and there is — in any event — a tremendous amount for a traveler to explore and discover.

We found the country to be very accessible. Some Koreans have had experience in the United States via their education or work and many others have studied some English. Many signs and menus are in English as well. So, we were able to get by with English and a Korean phrase book. Nonetheless, outside of Seoul, we found it very helpful to have a guide.

Initial impressions

The dynamism of Korea is impressive. Economic growth is modernizing many aspects of life. Construction seems to be booming. Cultural sites and traditions are being renewed. Innovation is valued and is being pushed forward on many fronts ranging from smartphones to K-pop music. Most people we encountered radiated optimism and a healthy confidence, as well as good humor. Other countries in the region have taken note. For example, Korean soap operas and music are popular across Asia and beyond (e.g., this wild K-Pop music video by Psy has had more than 255 millions hits). All of this seems to me in striking contrast with the gloom that in recent years sometimes seems to hang in the air in Western Europe or the United States.

There remain some significant challenges for Korea. Most notably, the terrible situation in North Korea is a clear concern. In addition to the strain on the South from provocations and threats by the North, many people we spoke with were clearly pained by the fate of folks in the North and the separation that has unnaturally split the Korean people.

There are also some economic challenges in the South. For example, productivity growth in agriculture and the retail sector greatly lags that of the industrial sector. Another example is duality in the labor market, whereby workers for large industrial firms benefit from stable and relatively well compensated employment while workers in smaller establishments may face much tougher conditions of employment. However, these are challenges that arise partly because much of the rest of the economy is surging forward.

Our visit to Korea left us with a very positive impression. From the beautiful landscapes, and warm welcomes, to traditional arts, good food and interesting cultural experiences, we found ourselves being pulled in and wanting to see and do more. A main conclusion from our trip is that we need a lot more time in Korea!

Photos

Linked below is a gallery with a sampler of landscapes, cultural sites and food, as well as some glimpses of the economic progress.

(Use the arrows to scroll up or down, click on the photos to see a full edition)

[flagallery gid=15 name=Gallery]

Traditional Korean folk village stay

Image

20120909-214116.jpg

Hahoe: A traditional Korean folk village

During a traditional Korean folk village stay, one of the first things that one notices in the evening are the crickets. Especially if you come from Paris, the contrast is striking.

With their song as a backdrop, one tends to lower the voice and to speak in warm tones. Here in Andong, Korea, in a traditional village called Hahoe, the pace is calm and the echo of tradition a bit more clear than in the city. Situated at a bend in the Nakdong River, beneigth a high cliff, and surrounded by hills and forests, the village has an idyllic setting.

We are staying at an excellent, small, Korean guest home called Rak Ko Jae, which I would recommend to those seeking a glimpse of rural life here in Korea. The food and hospitality are wonderful. The ambiance is a genuine echo of the past, though updated with a few key modern amenities discretely folded into the simple room design (e.g., wi-fi).

Restorative Properties

There is art in the structures and depth in the approach to life that resonates with people, even many who come from different cultures, like me! One can sit under an ancient tree or at a former Confucian study centre and gaze out at the river while pondering what really matters. I’m thinking the experience might help to restore those bruised urban warrior souls who take the time to visit and soak it all in.

Taking a train ride across Korea

Image

20120904-180739.jpg

We took a train ride across Korea and had a great and a very authentic time! The trip was a package deal via the tour group Haerang. While is it mainly oriented towards Korean travelers (which was part of the attraction for us!), the tour operators take time to ensure that all basic information is available in English and that an English-speaking staff person is available throughout.

Aura Rail Cruise

We took the Aura rail cruise which travels to Gang Neung in the east, then south to Gyeong Ju, then west to Kwang Ju, and then north back to Seoul. The trip is three days and two nights, with stops along the way to see natural sites and historic places, with wonderful meals at various restaurants. The meals included all sorts of seafood, meats, noodles and veggies, with options for more or less spice to be found among the various dishes (i.e., something for everyone). Throughout, there were fun activities that enabled us non-Korean travelers to immerse in Korean culture, including singalongs, games (championship rock, paper, scissors competitions) and more. Of course, there was also the option of retiring to one’s comfortable sleeper cabin on the train, as well, but most folks chose to be involved in most of the activities. By the end of the trip, there was a real sense of comradery among the 34 passengers in our group, including the six of us from outside of Korea. Overall, I found that while the trip was a bit pricey, it provided an excellent value.

 Someday a Haerang train ride across Korea (all the way)

The Haerang trains were originally purchased a few years ago, when it seemed that a thaw with North Korea was going to happen. The owners had hoped to set up a luxury train connection across North Korea, from Seoul to Beijing. Unfortunately, various incidents and tensions have prevented that from happening. But, when it does, I hope to be around to take advantage of the opportunity!

Champagne in and around Epernay

Posted on by

A recent weekend found us out on a quest to find the ideal champagne in and around Epernay. Our objective was to find bottles with contents having the right balance of top quality, dryness, affordability and tradition.

Thus, we set out for the town of Epernay, an important hub in the Champagne region located about 2 hours or less from Paris. A small city, it is easy to get around with nice pedestrian zones and an awe-inspiring collection of world-class champagne houses. I find Epernay more manageable than Reims, which is a much larger place with more of an urban feel. Three wineries really stood out to me:

  • Moet et Chandon, founded in 1743, is at the base of the prestigious Avenue de Champagne in Epernay. It still occupies some of the original buildings and is an elegant place with a great tour of the wine cellars. There are roughly 17km (10+ miles) of tunnels carved into the soft limestone rock under the facility, which keeps the wine cool and at a constant temperature year round. Just right for aging! Among other quality wines, Moet et Chandon produces a fine dry (brut) champagne under their “imperial” brand, as well as the famous and very pricey Dom Perignon (from a separate winery).
  • Alfred Gratien is a smaller house, with a long tradition and a third generation wine-maker in place. Gradually upgrading technologically (thanks to foreign investment), this house is still maintaining traditions like oak barrel aging of the wine as part of the vinification process. Their brut classique is a dry champagne, a fine balance of price and quality! I also like their blanc de blancs, which is made only from white grapes (Chardonnay) and has a fresh and fruity nose. Although a small house, they are exporting increasing volumes to the USA.
  • A short drive from Epernay is the Mailly winery, which offers a variety of champagne from top growing areas (grand crus). Their brut reserve is a great value and I would highly recommend it. For a splurge, I was very much intrigued by their Echansons champagne, which has a wonderful nose with almonds, citrus and other fruit, and even a hint of vanilla and bread when first opened. From a weekend in Epernay and Reims, and half a dozen tastings, I found Mailly to be tops for my pallet.

This quest was complemented by some very nice meals along the way. One can eat very well in Champagne! (For a very special occasion, I’d recommend Le Grand Cerf, which is a bit pricey, but of excellent quality!)

And, though there are towns named “Bouzy” and “Dizy”, the Champagne region is not just about drink and food. The countryside is beautiful! There are some great hikes and strolls to be had in and around the vineyards, as well as lots of history from Roman times to the two world wars and beyond. A nice outing, not far away from Epernay, is the historic village of Hautvillers. We stopped there to pay homage in the Abbey church where the original Dom Perignon — a Benedictine monk who developed an improved champagne method — was laid to rest in 1715. (Upon realising his discovery, he is said to have exclaimed, “Come quickly, I am drinking the stars.”, but that is probably apocryphal. )

Whether you have an opportunity to visit or simply a chance to have a glass of champagne, Epernay and its environs have something to offer for you!

Map of Epernay (Problems viewing the map? Then click here)

 

Alfred Bergere Winery in Epernay

Oregon Photo Sampler: Highlights Of A Great Outdoors Tour, June 2012

Posted on by

Oregon always seems to amaze me and my recent visit fit the pattern. The Oregon Photo Sampler, linked below, presents a quick view of some of the wonders of this great state. There are extremes of nature from the cold Pacific to rugged volcanoes and then on to the high desert. Summer conditions in Oregon can confound expectations: deep snow in June on the mountains, heat and clear blue skies in the valleys, and rainy days in the high desert (when you might have expected the sun). When you set out on an adventure, you need to be prepared for contingencies. Still, the sights, sounds and smells are conducive to an active lifestyle. It is glorious!

The slides in this Oregon Photo Sampler are from a great circle tour of Oregon. We set out in mid-June, starting out at Crater Lake, then over to Bend in the center, and John Day in the East, before returning through the Cascade Mountains to the Pacific coast via Portland. We always eat and drink well in Oregon. This aspect of life in Oregon pairs well with the outdoor activity. So, along with the photos of nature, I’ve thrown in a few photos of food and drink at the end of the slideshow.

If you are thinking of visiting, the Travel Oregon site provides a nice overview and offers some tips. As you skim the site it will soon be evident that, as they say, Oregon isn’t a place just “to see”. It is also a place “to do” and experience. More than once I’ve found myself drawn outdoors on days that would have kept me indoors back home in Paris.

Enjoy!

Oregon Photo Sampler

(If you are using a desktop computer, click on the little green square below the lower right-hand corner of the photo for a full screen view.)

[flagallery gid=5 skin=photo_blog name=Gallery]

Good Life in France

Posted on by

Good life in France

I love to have a weekday off in France. It provides a great opportunity to see how folks go about their daily routines. Today was just such a day of annual leave for me. So, I headed out to the countryside to buy fresh provisions at a nearby farm and dairy and to have a traditional lunch at one of my favorite “down home” type restaurants — the Hotel de Paris in Bievres. Ah, the good life in France!

Lunchtime at Hotel de Paris

The fare is very French with a daily menu of steak tatare, blood sausage, and such. I generally opt for the confit de canard (duck) with a nice glass of hardy Cotes du Rhone wine. Today, as I felt a bit like celebrating, I went not only for the duck, but also a lemon tart with meringue, topped off with an espresso.

A feeling of well-being was in the air, heightened by the general atmosphere. The weather was mild with poofy clouds crossing a blue sky. There were flowers in the boxes along the street, the doors and windows of the restaurant were all open, and the terrace in front was filled with folks on their lunch hour enjoying a glass of beer or wine along with the menu of the day. The mood was social and friendly. What a great escape from the various woes of the workplace!

20120703-162226.jpg

Amazing Crater Lake, Oregon

Posted on by

Flying over Crater Lake a couple of years ago, I found the sight so amazing from the air — spectacular, even — that I knew this was a place that I had to visit.  It took a while to find an opportunity. Crater Lake National Park is remote. But, a trip to Oregon for a family event provided just the occasion.

Crater Lake West Rim and Wizard Island

Crater Lake is formed from an ancient volcano, which erupted long ago with a massive blast, losing roughly 1300 meters (4000 ft) off of its top. The loss of material from the magma chamber below caused the remaining material in the center to collapse.  The resulting crater eventually filled with water, making the deepest lake in the United States. Up close, its tremendous size is hard to take in.

The rim is still quite high and even in June we encountered a lot of snow. During our visit, the drive around the rim was partly closed as were many hiking trails. We were still able to find a couple of nice hikes, such as at pull off no. 8 on the park map, along Munson Creek by Duwee Falls (easy hike, through wonderful conifer forest, but don’t expect to see much of the falls, which are hidden in a narrow valley) and at pull off no. 1, a trail that climbs the ridge behind the bountiful spring that forms Alice Creek (moderate difficulty, through some nice old timber).

For food, we enjoyed dining at the old Crater Lake Lodge, which has a good kitchen and a nice selection of regional wine. It is a little pricey. The view from the patio behind the lodge is wonderful! And, the lobby is a fine place for a drink or coffee and cake. Down in the valley below, we were surprised to find a great little organic grocery store at Jo’s Motel on route 62 in Fort Kalmath. They had a nice variety of organic food in the tiny establishment, as well as a carry out snack bar with fine sandwiches and burgers (though service was a little slow when we came by for lunch). While there, you will want to pick up a bottle of their All Terrain brand DEET-free herbal mosquito repellant, which we found to be effective. Some trails can be buggy. Lots of other wildlife can be seen, as well, such as deer that like to browse on the grass along the roadside.

All-in-all, it was well worth the effort to visit this national park!

A satellite view of the crater. (Problems viewing the map? Then click here)