Category Archives: History

Impressions and photos from a visit to Korea

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Impressions and photos from a visit to Korea

Rounding out my recent series of blog posts, I would like to offer a few further impressions and photos from a visit to Korea (Republic of Korea). During our trip, we toured the periphery of the country and then spent a couple of days in the center (Andong) and a few days in Seoul, as well as taking a tour to the border with North Korea (i.e., the demilitarized zone, DMZ). Based on these travels, I can recommend the Haerang Rail Cruise and Rak Ko Jae traditional B&B stays to anyone seeking an authentic experience in Korea.

We have a few connections to Korea through my work (Korea joined the OECD in 1996), my wife’s family (who lived in Korea for several years), and via friends. This gave us some insights and notions as to what to expect, as well as some contacts. Still, Korea is developing and changing rapidly, so much of what we encountered was new to us and there is — in any event — a tremendous amount for a traveler to explore and discover.

We found the country to be very accessible. Some Koreans have had experience in the United States via their education or work and many others have studied some English. Many signs and menus are in English as well. So, we were able to get by with English and a Korean phrase book. Nonetheless, outside of Seoul, we found it very helpful to have a guide.

Initial impressions

The dynamism of Korea is impressive. Economic growth is modernizing many aspects of life. Construction seems to be booming. Cultural sites and traditions are being renewed. Innovation is valued and is being pushed forward on many fronts ranging from smartphones to K-pop music. Most people we encountered radiated optimism and a healthy confidence, as well as good humor. Other countries in the region have taken note. For example, Korean soap operas and music are popular across Asia and beyond (e.g., this wild K-Pop music video by Psy has had more than 255 millions hits). All of this seems to me in striking contrast with the gloom that in recent years sometimes seems to hang in the air in Western Europe or the United States.

There remain some significant challenges for Korea. Most notably, the terrible situation in North Korea is a clear concern. In addition to the strain on the South from provocations and threats by the North, many people we spoke with were clearly pained by the fate of folks in the North and the separation that has unnaturally split the Korean people.

There are also some economic challenges in the South. For example, productivity growth in agriculture and the retail sector greatly lags that of the industrial sector. Another example is duality in the labor market, whereby workers for large industrial firms benefit from stable and relatively well compensated employment while workers in smaller establishments may face much tougher conditions of employment. However, these are challenges that arise partly because much of the rest of the economy is surging forward.

Our visit to Korea left us with a very positive impression. From the beautiful landscapes, and warm welcomes, to traditional arts, good food and interesting cultural experiences, we found ourselves being pulled in and wanting to see and do more. A main conclusion from our trip is that we need a lot more time in Korea!

Photos

Linked below is a gallery with a sampler of landscapes, cultural sites and food, as well as some glimpses of the economic progress.

(Use the arrows to scroll up or down, click on the photos to see a full edition)

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Traditional Korean folk village stay

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Hahoe: A traditional Korean folk village

During a traditional Korean folk village stay, one of the first things that one notices in the evening are the crickets. Especially if you come from Paris, the contrast is striking.

With their song as a backdrop, one tends to lower the voice and to speak in warm tones. Here in Andong, Korea, in a traditional village called Hahoe, the pace is calm and the echo of tradition a bit more clear than in the city. Situated at a bend in the Nakdong River, beneigth a high cliff, and surrounded by hills and forests, the village has an idyllic setting.

We are staying at an excellent, small, Korean guest home called Rak Ko Jae, which I would recommend to those seeking a glimpse of rural life here in Korea. The food and hospitality are wonderful. The ambiance is a genuine echo of the past, though updated with a few key modern amenities discretely folded into the simple room design (e.g., wi-fi).

Restorative Properties

There is art in the structures and depth in the approach to life that resonates with people, even many who come from different cultures, like me! One can sit under an ancient tree or at a former Confucian study centre and gaze out at the river while pondering what really matters. I’m thinking the experience might help to restore those bruised urban warrior souls who take the time to visit and soak it all in.

A few random musings while sitting in Seoul, Korea

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Sitting in Seoul

Just sitting in Seoul, Korea, one can see that it is an amazing case study in development. There is evidence all around demonstrating that economic and social policy can make a difference.

Seoul, the capital, is huge, clean and modern, while also keeping alive its traditions and remembering its past. The city is bursting with entrepreneurial activity, public investment in infrastructure and education, cultural initiatives, new housing and much more.

During an hour-long stroll in Seoul, one can encounter sprawling markets, wonderful palaces, great food, world-class museums, and quaint leafy lanes. But, the city is expansive, and there are many worthwhile hour-long strolls to be had around various neighborhoods such as Bukchon, Etaewan or Insadong (to name just a few).

For optimal enjoyment, you will want to take your time and allow for a bit of serendipity. There might be something interesting just around the corner, such as a fine old tea room. And, sometimes it is interesting just to stop a while in the shade and watch the city go by.

A few decades ago, Korea was war-torn and poor. Now, the country is counted among the advanced nations of the world. And, Seoul is a fine showcase for this progress!

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Taking a train ride across Korea

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We took a train ride across Korea and had a great and a very authentic time! The trip was a package deal via the tour group Haerang. While is it mainly oriented towards Korean travelers (which was part of the attraction for us!), the tour operators take time to ensure that all basic information is available in English and that an English-speaking staff person is available throughout.

Aura Rail Cruise

We took the Aura rail cruise which travels to Gang Neung in the east, then south to Gyeong Ju, then west to Kwang Ju, and then north back to Seoul. The trip is three days and two nights, with stops along the way to see natural sites and historic places, with wonderful meals at various restaurants. The meals included all sorts of seafood, meats, noodles and veggies, with options for more or less spice to be found among the various dishes (i.e., something for everyone). Throughout, there were fun activities that enabled us non-Korean travelers to immerse in Korean culture, including singalongs, games (championship rock, paper, scissors competitions) and more. Of course, there was also the option of retiring to one’s comfortable sleeper cabin on the train, as well, but most folks chose to be involved in most of the activities. By the end of the trip, there was a real sense of comradery among the 34 passengers in our group, including the six of us from outside of Korea. Overall, I found that while the trip was a bit pricey, it provided an excellent value.

 Someday a Haerang train ride across Korea (all the way)

The Haerang trains were originally purchased a few years ago, when it seemed that a thaw with North Korea was going to happen. The owners had hoped to set up a luxury train connection across North Korea, from Seoul to Beijing. Unfortunately, various incidents and tensions have prevented that from happening. But, when it does, I hope to be around to take advantage of the opportunity!

Raid at Dieppe, 19 August 1942

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We have often visited the Normandy beaches, but a recent visit to Dieppe on the French coast a bit further North reawakened vague memories of a history class discussion long ago. The subject was the Raid at Dieppe. It was a real jolt to find myself on the beach last week and make the connection, seeing the actual site and learning in more depth the story of what happened on 19 August 1942.

Raid at Dieppe – A Story Pushed Aside by Later, Larger Developments?

In the first few decades after WWII, the war remained fresh in the memories of US veterans and their families. Not everyone could or would talk about it. But, in my Mom’s family, war stories were a common theme at holiday gatherings. With various veterans in the family, we could compare first hand narratives on wars ranging from WWI to Vietnam.

I have vivid childhood memories of family times around my grandparents’ dining room table during the 1960s. There wasn’t enough room for the whole family, so the little kids usually ate on a card table In the living room, sometimes with the TV on. But, once I got to be 9 or 10 years old, I graduated to sit with the adults and could listen in and ask an  occasional question.

It was not all glory. My mom told us how her class cried after the news of Pearl Harbor and the declaration of war. One uncle was wounded in the margins of the Battle of the Bulge. A great uncle died in WWI under murky circumstances. My Dad had photos from a kamikaze attack on his ship. But, other stories were more rowdy, such as an uncle (a sailor) getting detained by communist authorities in Varna while on a port call after the war. My Dad took a rickshaw ride in Shanghai, where his ship made a stop a few months after Japan capitulated.

However, I don’t ever recall hearing about the raid in Dieppe. Perhaps this was due to the limited American involvement. In any event, it wasn’t until high school that the raid at Dieppe came onto my radar screen.

Raid at Dieppe – A Terrible Price

As the Germans were working to fortify the French coast during the course of 1942, the allies felt growing pressure to act. Prior to a full-scale invasion, Churchill and other leaders wanted to demonstrate that offensive moves were possible. They decided a raid would help them to collect intelligence, disrupt the fortification process, damage infrastructure, probe German defensive strategy, and boost morale among the allies. After some delays, the allies decided to act and settled on the date of 19 August 1942.

Canadian forces were given the lead role on the ground, supported by the British and other allies. In addition to numerous memorials honoring the Canadian effort, plaques in Dieppe commemorate French, Polish and US troops who fought and died in the raid. Fifty US Rangers participated, the first US ground troops to see action in the war on the continent.

Although the raid in Dieppe only lasted about 9 hours, it proved to be a disaster for the allies. The planners underestimated the capacity of the city’s defenses and misjudged the slope of the beach and the effects of the rocky shores on the tanks’ mobility. To protect civilians, they failed to provide for adequate initial bombardment. In addition, the landing timings got skewed such that smoke screens had blown away when the troops arrived, pre-emptive strikes to take out key defensive installations were not completed in advance, and forces were not concentrated in the right places. Of the 6000 men on the ground in the raid, over half were killed, wounded or captured.

Nowadays, Dieppe is a sleepy seaside resort, fishing port, and ferry terminal. Wandering in the town and hiking in the surrounding hills, it is hard to believe that such carnage took place here 70 years ago this week. The peace and security of life here now contrasts with this dark past and provides a living testament to the international achievements after WWII in building a new Europe.

 Dieppe Photo Gallery – A Raider’s Perspective

(Trouble viewing this gallery? It can be viewed by going to this Q4TK web page:
Raid at Dieppe permalink)

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Use the arrows to scroll up or down

Additional Reference

  • Here is a link to archival film footage from the battle. (NB, the film title misses the fact that most of the dead and wounded were Canadian and the soundtrack does not reflect the gravity of the images, but it is amazing that this footage is even available considering that there was a desperate war situation going on at the time.)

 For an edition of the page with a map, click here

Living in the Moment – Floors

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Maybe it is something in my church background that sensitised me to living in the moment. When visiting a new place, especially when entering a building of note, I have a practice of trying to be aware of the architecture and the details of the structure. If the building has particular merit — such as unique architecture or age or spirituality or service as a witness to history, then I try to allow a bit of time to let it soak in.

One of the things I try to do is note the floors. The photo gallery attached below presents a few of the floors that have caught my attention in recent years. They reflect the efforts of people to differentiate the floors of the structures they helped build, in some cases as an act of artistic or religious expression.

Next time you enter a building of note, don’t forget to look down! You may be rewarded with a sight at that moment that provides you with a special connection to the past.

Photo Gallery: Living in the Moment – Floors

(use the arrows below the gallery to scroll up or down)

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Flavigny-sur-Ozerain, Burgundy, France

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Flavigny-sur-Ozerain is a real gem of a medieval town in Burgundy. Lush countryside and agriculture, historic structures, great hikes, wonderful food, local wine. The town served as the set for the movie Chocolate.  What’s not to like?

Here is a sketch from our recent visit to see friends in Flavigny last weekend. Below that, you’ll find some suggestions, and below that you’ll find a map:

A chapel and (former) pigsties - Flavigny-sur-Ozerain, France(Doug, ©2012)

Some of my favourite things from our short visit:

  • Lunch at La Grange: just in front of the village parish, St. Genès. Local farmers offer a reasonably priced lunch based on their local produce, served up in an old hall with a great atmosphere.
  • A visit to the Carolingian crypt under the former Abbey of St. Pierre (ca. AD 800s). Dating from the time of Charlemagne and his sons, this structure provides a fragmentary glimpse of an early church structure. I’m partial to Carolingian history, as it was a time of cultural reawakening after centuries of turbulence in the aftermath of the collapse of the Roman empire.
  • Maison des Arts Textiles et du Design is a wonderful small museum, training centre and shop, where the history of textiles in the region is presented alongside art in modern fabric design by a real master. Gorgeous stuff and interesting content.        (a visual presentation)
  • Hiking on any of the trails around the valley of the Ozerain river.
  • The choir stalls of the St. Genès church date from hundreds of years ago and include some beautiful carvings including a few that bring some unexpected humour to an otherwise spiritual atmosphere.
  • Cut stone and stone carvings throughout the town. Paying attention to the old stones is well worth it, as some are quite elegant and artful, reflecting a spiritual quality. Just being there, pondering the stones, provides a cosmic connection to the sculptors of previous centuries.

Here is a map:

(If map doesn’t display properly, then click here)

 

Antique Toy Fire Truck

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OurAntique Toy Fire Truck house outside of Paris was built in the last quarter of the 19th century. After World War II, it was completely rebuilt inside and out. A row of hedges was planted around the yard.

Recently, one of these old bushes died and I was forced to cut it down. While digging out the roots, about 1 meter down (3 feet), I found this toy truck. Some kid seems to have lost it long ago, or maybe intentionally buried it when the bush was planted (it has a broken wheel).

Not quite a Delorian, but it is back to the future nonetheless!

 

Steeplechase in France

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Steeplechase had its origins in the first half of the 1800s as cross-country races in Ireland and the UK. The various obstacles are meant to mimic the hazards one might encounter in such a race going town to town. Steeplechase soon caught on in France, too. The Gras Savoye Grand Steeple-Chase de Paris is the most prestigious steeplechase race in France, with the largest purse (850,000 euros). It’s run at the Auteuil racecourse and is quite a cultural phenomenon. With an advance coupon, entry is free and all sorts of people turn up. It is great to see a broad range of people taking advantage of this, sharing the fun. The true “horse people” get all dressed up, the ladies wearing great hats!