Category Archives: Nature

Disruption in Paris; Smooth Sailing in Berlin, Geneva and Lausanne

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Traveling through a slice of Central Europe

Despite a French transportation strike, I managed to fly out of Paris this week for meetings in Berlin and Geneva, with a side trip to Lausanne. While some transport workers proclaimed opposition to further European integration, it felt to me as if they were actually promoting European dis-integration. Airline has cancelled all of my original flights. But, Lufthansa staff kindly worked with me to find alternatives that got me where I needed to go. In the end, I came away feeling pretty good about the world. I’m pretty sure that the arrival of warm and sunny weather also contributed to my positive disposition.

A dash through Berlin

I get to Berlin every couple of years and with each visit I feel a little more attached to the city. This sentiment is actually helped along by a personal connection. In the 1880s, my great grandfather emigrated to the US from Berlin. He had been an organist in a large church there. So, the city figures somewhere in my family lore.

Berlin is a city with bountiful green space, lakes and flowing water, cultural opportunities (reasonably-priced opera tickets!), history and world class museums, plus quality food and drink. Not to mention shopping for those so inclined. It maintains an excellent public transportation system.

Whenever I visit I am struck by the dynamism of the place. Following reunification of East and West Berlin in 1989, the city set to work transforming and integrating itself. Two decades later the community has accomplished substantial renewal. Areas that were formerly cut off or disrupted in the communist past have revived as cultural centers (e.g., around Potsdamer Platz), pedestrian zones (e.g., around Nikolai church), or tourist zones (e.g., around Brandenburger gate).

But, parts of the city remain large construction sites as the renewal continues. Cranes dot the skyline. A controversial project to rebuild the Berliner Schloss — a former royal palace in the city center (ruined in WWII) — has just gotten underway after several  years of debate. The metro system is expanding. New commercial construction continues apace. Alas, leaving much still to explore, my schedule indicated it was time to depart for Geneva and Lausanne.

  • Recommendation: We had a nice meal outdoors at the Julchen Hoppe restaurant on the edge of the Nikolai Quarter of the city. Our meal included traditional foods and decent wine at a reasonable price. Very nice wild mushroom soup and fresh asparagus, fish and fowl main courses.

Swiss quality in Geneva and Lausanne

Geneva

I have written about Geneva in an earlier post, but there is more. This time I had business at several international organizations including the World Trade Organization (WTO).

I am always amazed at the wonderful headquarters of the WTO, the William Rappard Center, which was built in the 1920s to house the International Labour Organization (ILO). At a time when communist revolution was in the air, the ILO was developed to address labor concerns and demonstrate that market economies could deliver better quality of life for workers. The original building has some palatial features, without being too extravagant. Nonetheless, the fountains, sculpture and murals reflect a blend of expressionist and classical art that honors the value of labor in fueling economic growth and well-being.

During this visit, construction had blocked the main entrance and I wound up being channeled through the Chinese garden that is on the grounds. This was my first visit to the garden and it provided a pleasant and unexpected entry to the facility. That evening Geneva was radiant in the late-day sun and early summer weather. I took advantage of the fine evening to stroll along the Rhone and Lake Leman, before deciding to eat outdoors at a local Chinese restaurant in honor of the WTO garden.

Lausanne

During my stay, I made an afternoon visit for a meeting at IMD, a prestigious business school in the city of Lausanne. After all of the transportation disruption in France, the train ride over to Lausanne on the Swiss rail system provided a welcome contrast. The trains over and back departed in a timely fashion, traveling quickly and sailing along the rails with remarkably smooth suspension and quiet interiors. So nice!

Lausanne is a small city set in gorgeous countryside on Lake Leman. The Alps rise from the water on the opposite shore. Between Geneva and Lausanne, vineyards and farms dot the lake shore amidst various small towns. I took the metro from the Lausanne train station down to the lake. Due to the slope of the hill the metro is built on quite an angle, which was rather surprising to a flat-lander like me. I stopped for a soft drink at a local cafe on Lausanne harbor. Inertia nearly got the better of me and I had to strain against the warm, sunny, lazy afternoon feeling in order to get to my meeting on time.

Paris – Using Charm to Put Things Right

My return to Paris proved mercifully uneventful. The transport strikes had passed and the grey, cool dampness had moved on in favor of sunny weather. I pulled out the grill for a BBQ with friends and took a fresh look at Paris. As usual, after disrupting my life and travel once again, Paris turned on its charm and won back my affection.

Photo from Berlin

Berlin Cathedral and TV Tower, (C) Doug Lippoldt, 2006

Berlin Cathedral and TV Tower, Photo (C) Doug Lippoldt, 2006

Photos from Geneva and Lausanne

Justice, by Luc Jaggi, 1925, Geneva, Photo (c) Doug Lippoldt, 2013

Lausanne Harbour – 52 swans, (c) Doug Lippoldt, 2013

(Copyright, Doug, 2013, 2021)

Brittany – Sunshine on the Rhuys Peninsula

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Escape to Brittany

Thanks to a kind invitation from a friend in Brittany, the possibility to escape for a few days  from the wet, grey Parisian Winter and Spring beckoned. And, so, we set out from Paris for the Rhuys Peninsula on the Atlantic coast on the south side of Brittany. Our home base would be the little village of Penvins, which is surrounded by gorgeous countryside and sea. This proved to be an ideal starting point for exploring the nearby towns of Port Navalo, Saint Gildas, Sarzeau and Vannes, as well as the nature preserve and castle at Suscinio and the old tide-powered grain mill at Pen Castle.

Notre Dame de la Cote - Penvins

Notre Dame de la Cote – Penvins: This little church stands on a modest spit of land jutting out into the Atlantic. The builders chose a design resembling a Greek cross, which enabled it to better resist the seasonal winds. According to a marker by the church: on this site previously stood a Gallo-Roman chapel, which superseded a even older iron age religious site.

One is never far from water on this little peninsula, a fact that heavily influences the environment. The air is clean and fresh, at times windy. Several old windmills and a number of immense new ones are strategically located to take advantage of the gusts. From hiking and bird watching to swimming and sailing, people orient their free time to the coastal outdoors. Fresh local seafood can be found in the open-air markets and on the restaurant menus. Wetlands have been preserved. Development is generally of the low-rise variety.

The connection to the sea is present in the culture. Via their harbors, the coastal towns face outward towards the sea. Casual conversation often turns towards boats, seafood or water-related activity. We visited several old churches with model ships or other art with sea motifs.

Penvins: The city hall is a little building at a crossroads in the center of town. A sign out front directs visitors to the beach!

Penvins: The city hall is a little building at a crossroads in the center of town. A sign out front directs visitors to the beach!

The legacy of long human settlement — spanning thousands of years — is also very present. Neolithic people left behind numerous rock monuments such as menhir and dolmen. They appear to have thrived here, prior to the arrival of the Celts including the Bretons. The waves of subsequent immigration brought further development. Today, many towns boast expansive historic centers dating back to the early middle ages.

The Celtic culture blends with the French. A minority of folks still speak the Breton language, which is related to Welsh. While the language suffered from suppression by Francophiles during the past century, it is now enjoying a modest revival thanks to educational efforts and cultural programming via the media. More broadly, the Breton culture continues to influence the atmosphere through its music, cuisine and other cultural presentations (including the proudly displayed Breton flag).

This spring the Rhuys peninsula was a particularly wondrous sight for us. We were restored by the sunshine, wildflowers, clean air and hikes in nature, not to mention local cuisine and cider. Even in the course of a short visit, such a place can help one to regain some perspective on what matters. I suspect that given a bit more time there, one might rediscover a sustainable feeling of serenity.

Photo tour of the Rhuys Peninsula from Penvins to Port Navalo

Use arrows under the gallery to scroll up or down and display additional photos. If you have trouble viewing the display, then click here to go to the page on the blog: Permalink.

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Recommendations

Creperies

  • Les Salines – 11, rue Ker An Pou, 56370 Penvins: Fine creperie in the center of the village, with outdoor seating. Try the caramel-salted butter crepe for dessert. Note: hours vary by season. Tel. 02.97.67.44.61
  • Avel Vor – 4, place Richemont, 56370 Sarzeau: Set on the market square next to St. Saturnin church, this restaurant serves crispy and creative crepes of excellent quality. Try the scallops (St. Jacques) and creme crepe for a main course. Outdoor seating for nice weather.

Cider

  • St. Armel Cider – This award-winning cider is available at La Maison du Cidre (Musée du Cidre), Route de Lann-Vrihan (RD 780 – Axe Vannes-Sarzeau – Rond point du Hézo), 56450 Le Hézo, Tél./Fax : 02 97 26 47 40. Fine “cidre brut” at a reasonable price! 

Google Map of Brittany, with the Rhuys Peninsula indicated by the red marker


 

 

A Forest Preserve For Paris – Verrieres Forest

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Heading out to Verrieres Forest (Forêt de Verrières)

Former Artillery Position - Chestnut Grove (Ancienne batterie de la Chataigneraie)

Former Artillery Position – Chestnut Grove
(Ancienne batterie de la Chataigneraie)

Today was a grey, drizzly kind of day around Paris, so we set off to do some exploration of the Forêt de Verrières outside of the city. The forest sits atop a hill (172 meters, or 574 feet, high) located just alongside Paris’ outer beltway, about 16 kilometers (10 miles) south of the Eiffel Tower.

It is an ancient woods. There is archaeological evidence of human activity dating back into prehistory. Over the centuries several chateaux have stood on these grounds. At various times the land belonged to the nearby Abbey of Saint Germain. King Louis XIII set the area up as royal hunting grounds in the 1600s. After a couple of battles with Prussians (1815 and 1870), the government set aside part of the grounds for artillery defenses. The military still holds a small parcel of land near the middle of the forest.

Verrieres Forest, Today

Urbanization and road construction have gobbled up sizable chunks of the original forest. Nowadays, the forest covers about 576 hectares (ca. 1425 acres), which is about half of its historic size. This has had an impact on wildlife. Big deer species and wild boar have disappeared in the face of fragmentation of the forest land and increased use by people and their dogs. A few smaller deer (chevreuils) may inhabit the woods, as well as foxes, rabbits, weasels and smaller critters. These animals benefit from the ban on hunting in the woods that has been in place since 1818.

Today we did not see any such wildlife, rather it seemed to be a day for the birds. There were all sorts of song birds, woodpeckers, ravens and crows, among others. The drizzle cut down on the number of people in the woods and, with springtime in the air, the birds were singing joyfully. I stopped to record a bit of their chorus: Forest Birds-Verrieres (click here to hear some of these birds).

An Integrated Biological Preserve

Verrieres Forest is characterised by a biologically sheltered situation in an urban environment; 42 hectares of the forest have been classified as an integrated biological preserve, meaning that the land will be protected from human intervention for a long period. This will permit scientific study of the development of a natural ecosystem, one that differs from the surrounding managed forest.

Verrieres Forest is characterized by a biologically sheltered situation in an urban environment; 42 hectares of the forest have been classified as an integrated biological preserve, meaning that the land will be protected from human intervention for a long period. This will permit scientific study of the development of a natural ecosystem, one that differs from the surrounding managed forest.

We soon discovered a further reason why the birds were so happy. In the middle of the forest is a 42 hectare (100 acre) section that the National Forest Office set up in 2005 as a biological reserve (réserve biologique intégrale). All forestry operations are prohibited and entry is discouraged. A dense growth of oaks, chestnuts, ashes, beech and birch has developed.

Such protection for flora and fauna is extremely rare in France. Only just over 1% of the forests in this nation are set aside as preserves. The difference with typical French forests is striking. In the preserve, the underbrush is growing throughout, old trees lay where they fall, birds are everywhere, and it is dark at ground level. It is amazing how much the forest has been transformed in less than 10 years. This stands in contrast to a typical working forest in France, where nature is kept in check.

From Prehistory to the Future

Prehistoric people gathered and worked flint in this area.

Prehistoric people gathered and worked flint in this area.

Our hike carried us from the center of the woods to a former artillery position at the north-east corner of the forest, which has a beautiful view of Paris. We continued along the eastern edge of the woods, where rocks are exposed on the slope and prehistoric people are known to have collected flint to make tools and arrow heads.

As we turned onto the path leading back to our car, we walked along the edge of the biological preserve. When a place combines historical interest and ecological innovation, then it has a good chance of grabbing my attention. This was such a place. The establishment of a biological preserve in the center of a forest just 10 miles from the Eiffel Tower seems almost audacious. It is still in its early days and clearly evolving at a rapid pace. Nature is taking advantage of the offer of peace. I’ll be watching to see what happens next.

Map of Verrieres Forest – La Forêt de Verrières

(Verrieres Forest = bouncing icon; Eiffel Tower and Paris = fixed icon)

If you are having trouble viewing the map, then click this link:

https://www.q4tk.com/2013/05/19/verrieres-forest/

Champagne – From Troyes to the Marne

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Champagne tour

Champagne is a glorious place, even in lousy weather. It has class. Not the pretentious kind, but rather a classiness that comes from attainment of quality and competence in wine-making and cuisine. The region can take on rustic and down-to-earth airs. But, it can also manifest excellence in presentation, for example in serving a fine meal based largely on local supplies. There is a sense of history and tradition, though this contrasts sometimes with the innovation and technological progress that are also in evidence (where appropriate). The scenery is bucolic and lush. And, of course, there is champagne!

The Aube and Points North

When folks think of Champagne they tend to think first of Reims and Epernay, with the splendid mountain between them surrounded by vineyards, with a branch stretching south to Vertus. But, there is another stretch of authentic Champagne vineyards further south, in the Aube region around Troyes. Long producing champagne-style wines and supplying grapes to the big name houses in Reims and Epernay, the Aube region was officially recognized as being part of the Champagne district in the early 1900s (after a series of revolts known as the Champagne Riots).

Troyes is the main town in the Aube region, as well as the historical capital of Champagne. Already settled in Roman times, Troyes has long been surrounded by wine production. While much of the city was destroyed by various fires in the Middle Ages, there are quite a few half-timbered houses and churches remaining from the 1500s. Looking at a map of the old town, one may notice that it is appropriately shaped like a cork.

The town has had a difficult history with various wars and social upheavals leading to troubles. Attila the Hun was stopped outside of town by a combination of force and compensation. The Jewish population, once thriving (e.g., the famous scholar Rashi established a center there for Talmudic studies in 1070AD), was abused and expelled in Medieval times. In later centuries, a Jewish population was reestablished but then fell victim to terrible oppression during WWII (see photo of the memorial below). After WWII a new synagogue was established in some Medieval buildings in the old town.

The vineyards of Montgueux spread across a small enclave to the west of Troyes, producing chardonnay grapes. The area is recognized on official maps showing designated zones for Champagne  production. Montgueux is a small island of production at some distance from the next officially recognized zones.

Heading north from Troyes one comes to the southern area of the Reims-Epernay champagne district. There is a wonderful chateau in the village of Etoges. It is now a bed and breakfast. A fine dinner can be had at the chateau, served with style in the former orangerie.

From Etoges, the Champagne route can be followed through the hills and vineyards to the town of Vertus, which is home to a number of champagne houses. Heavily damaged over the centuries, Vertus still has a number of remarkable old buildings and some nice parks well-suited for picnics, all set in the ambiance of a successful champagne-producing town. Heading north toward Epernay, the road hugs the cote des blancs district with famous wine towns such as Oger, Avize and Cramant.

Onward to Epernay and the Marne

Epernay is a wonderful town, home to some of the finest champagne houses, many of which are located along Champagne Avenue. Smaller and calmer than Reims, Epernay still radiates class. Many of the producers offer tours of their cellars and tastings, which can make for a very pleasant morning or afternoon, especially when paired with a fine meal at a local establishment.

The Marne River flows along the northern reaches of Epernay and its valley is home to some spectacular vineyards including a number of grand cru and premier cru areas (i.e., top-notch). The abbey in Hautvillers was home to the famous cleric Dom Perignon, who is sometimes considered the legendary father of champagne wines. While that has been challenged, he did in reality develop improved techniques for wine production, making a contribution that is still worthy of praise. We paid hommage to him at the former abbey church.

The vineyards skirting the hillsides to the north of the Marne are some of the best. From Cumieres to Ay to Mutigny one sees famous vintner names inscribed on low stone markers on the edges of their acreage along the roadside. In springtime, the countryside is verdant with forest land and crop fields bordering the vineyards. This week the vines were beginning to bud, a bit later than usual.

Really? Heading back to Paris so soon?

Heading west from Mutigny, we drove along the Marne through beautiful countryside. Flowering trees added splashes of color in the forests, as did the various orchard trees in farms and gardens along the river. The various species of early-leafing trees and plants displayed many contrasting shades of green, making the scenery look like an expressionist painting.

Finally, as we passed through Chatillon-sur-Marne, we knew our Champagne meandering time was coming to the end. As we headed toward the highway home, a statue of Pope Urbain II loomed above us pointing the way and perhaps raising the question as to why anyone would be heading back to the metropolis after such a short visit.

Photo Galleries

Use the arrows at the bottom of each gallery to scroll up or down. Double click to expand a picture. If the galleries do not display, then click on this link: http://wp.me/p2sfPf-mO .

1) From Troyes to Etoges

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2) From Epernay along the Marne

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(Copyright: Doug, 2013)

Take a hike: on the trail to Versailles

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Trail to Versailles

Today was the day to return to the forest trails. Seven weeks after a bad fall while working in the garden, it was finally time. So, out I went from Chaville, into Meudon Forest, along the trail to Versailles, and then back along the old road through the town of Viroflay. What a gorgeous environment and what a privilege to live in the middle of it all!

A few blocks from our front door I found the trail head and started up the hill, through the working forest of mostly deciduous trees. Some substantial cut oak tree trunks lined the path, ready to be hauled to the mill. But, thanks to the selective logging approach used in this forest, the hike still offered the prospect of immersion into nature.

The trail gained a bit of altitude and through the winter forest I had some great views of the valley leading to Versailles. After rounding a low rise, I approached a clearing and there — after doing a double take — I realized were a couple of kids practicing tight rope walking between the trees. And, they were pretty good at it. Not your typical forest activity!

Coming down the trail towards the Versailles city limit, I turned and took the old road through Viroflay. Parts of the road there were already in existence in Roman times. Later on, the road served as the route taken by the royal guards traveling between the Louvre Palace and Versailles. A couple of stretches of cobblestone still provide a hint that the road has been around for a while.

The town of Viroflay has preserved some nice bits of architecture pre-dating the French revolution. The manor of the Lords of Viroflay remains, nowadays serving as a music school. The former city hall and first school building are still there, next to the medieval church and several proper homes from royal times or shortly thereafter.

Before modern transport gave us all access to citrus fruit, the wealthy sometimes built a special structure called an “orangerie”, which is a sort of green house for keeping citrus trees year round. Today, I discovered that the town of Viroflay had installed solar panels on the roof of the local orangerie, proudly displaying the power production on a monitor on the side of the building. They re-purposed the sunlight!

With that, it was time for me to return home. I walked along the rail line back past the recently completed apartment complex for university students (also with solar cells on the roof). The new blends in well with the old. I came home feeling restored, ready to plot a future hike, perhaps going even further into the forest next time.

 A few photos from the hike (use arrows at bottom to scroll)

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Chaville to Versailles: A map

A concussion, but then came the siskins

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The past month has not been a fun one for me. A bad fall left me with a concussion and other injuries. I had my first-ever hospitalization and drew on medical services from a range of providers across the region south-west of Paris. Friends, family and colleagues lent their support, while nature also chipped in some entertainment.

Access to health care – mending a concussion

The experience gave me a first-hand look at emergency health care in France and really reinforced my appreciation for the social protection available to me. I had ready access to quality medical care. My employer was extremely helpful in providing moral support, sick leave and insurance coverage. In addition to all the care provided by my dear spouse, friends and colleagues checked in on me and helped me to maintain a positive attitude despite the slow pace of recovery. While I was able to do a little work from home, I am grateful that the system encouraged me to focus first of all on my health.

Support from nature

Male Siskin in full spring courtship plumage (c) Martin Pateman, Schutterstock

Male Siskin in full spring courtship plumage
(c) Martin Pateman, Schutterstock

Meanwhile, nature was also doing its part to give me a boost. This week a new type of bird put in several appearances by our feeder: the siskin (in French: tarin des aulnes). They arrived in little flocks of 6 or 8, sporting striking spring plumage and spreading out to comb the ground in search of seed. At the same time, our various chickadees — especially the blue ones (mésanges bleues) — happily accommodated the siskins. The chickadees rooted through the food offered at the feeder, searching for peanuts and casting other seeds overboard in the process. Like manna from heaven, the siskins were bombarded with all sorts of goodies from the feeder, which helped to top off the ground-level food supply already available in our organic garden.

Complementary activities

This little show of nature complemented the other care and support that I’ve received in recent weeks. Taking place outside our dining room window, it boosted the morale of residents and visitors alike, and left me smiling. One more thing for which I am grateful!

 

 

 

 

 

Chestnuts

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It has been a wet Fall around Paris. Running through the forest on my weekly jog last Sunday, it felt as if the moisture had transformed the place into a quasi rainforest. Pounding the trails, I could sense that the moisture had expanded the organic material underfoot; it felt like running on cork. The forest smelled of decaying wood, a rich, fecund smell. As I ran along, the occasional chestnut would fall. I cruised past three fellows from eastern Europe (well, speaking a Slavic language, anyhow) collecting chestnuts in sacks. Further down the trail, I spied some other folks rummaging through the underbrush in search of these edible nuts.

According to the French National Forest Office, chestnut trees make up about 50% of the forest in our area. These trees are an important part of the fabric of the place. In part of our forest they are cultivated and eventually cut, in other places they are protected. On sunny days, people come out to stroll on forest paths under their branches, particularly from the time of flowering in the Spring until it is time to collect and eat the nuts in the Fall. Our daughters, too, sometimes collected and roasted the nuts. (We discovered that if you don’t pierce the shell adequately, the chestnuts explode upon roasting.) Year round, one finds joggers, hikers and bikers out communing with the chestnut trees.

When my kids were young, we were walking through the forest near our home and came across a chestnut nut that had sprouted. We brought it home and planted it in a pot. Soon the nut was a small tree. Now, ten or twelve years later that tree has gone through several pots and is in the biggest size pot that we’ll tolerate in our garden. It is a sort of large bonsai. The tree fits nicely in our garden, standing about two meters (>6 feet) tall, but constrained by the size of the pot. Each spring it happily flowers and makes me smile. Unfortunately, the joy of chestnuts is now missing from much of the US forestland.

In the eastern US, the chestnut tree used to make up a large part of the forest (ca. 25% in 1900), but a blight accidentally imported from China struck. By the 1940s, most of the trees were wiped out or stunted. These fast growing and long-lived trees had been a major source of food for wildlife and people, as well as providing durable, rot-resistant wood for construction. It is hard to imagine the tremendous extent of the loss from the blight, but it is clear that it transformed the eastern US woodlands.

Yet, all is not lost. The American Chestnut Foundation is working to develop new hybrid chestnut trees that can resist the ravages of the blight. They are cross-breeding some resistance from Chinese chestnuts into the American variety, while preserving as much as 95% of the original characteristics of the American tree. Some of the work is being done near Sugarloaf Mountain in Maryland, not far from the junction of the Monocacy and Potomac Rivers and a favorite hiking area for me back when I lived in Maryland. A breeding program is underway there. For the moment the chestnut tree remains largely absent from the US forests, but perhaps one day conditions will enable it to resume its natural place in American life.

American Chestnut

American Chestnut                    © Michael Zmasser-Drexler, Shutterstock.com

Impressions and photos from a visit to Korea

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Impressions and photos from a visit to Korea

Rounding out my recent series of blog posts, I would like to offer a few further impressions and photos from a visit to Korea (Republic of Korea). During our trip, we toured the periphery of the country and then spent a couple of days in the center (Andong) and a few days in Seoul, as well as taking a tour to the border with North Korea (i.e., the demilitarized zone, DMZ). Based on these travels, I can recommend the Haerang Rail Cruise and Rak Ko Jae traditional B&B stays to anyone seeking an authentic experience in Korea.

We have a few connections to Korea through my work (Korea joined the OECD in 1996), my wife’s family (who lived in Korea for several years), and via friends. This gave us some insights and notions as to what to expect, as well as some contacts. Still, Korea is developing and changing rapidly, so much of what we encountered was new to us and there is — in any event — a tremendous amount for a traveler to explore and discover.

We found the country to be very accessible. Some Koreans have had experience in the United States via their education or work and many others have studied some English. Many signs and menus are in English as well. So, we were able to get by with English and a Korean phrase book. Nonetheless, outside of Seoul, we found it very helpful to have a guide.

Initial impressions

The dynamism of Korea is impressive. Economic growth is modernizing many aspects of life. Construction seems to be booming. Cultural sites and traditions are being renewed. Innovation is valued and is being pushed forward on many fronts ranging from smartphones to K-pop music. Most people we encountered radiated optimism and a healthy confidence, as well as good humor. Other countries in the region have taken note. For example, Korean soap operas and music are popular across Asia and beyond (e.g., this wild K-Pop music video by Psy has had more than 255 millions hits). All of this seems to me in striking contrast with the gloom that in recent years sometimes seems to hang in the air in Western Europe or the United States.

There remain some significant challenges for Korea. Most notably, the terrible situation in North Korea is a clear concern. In addition to the strain on the South from provocations and threats by the North, many people we spoke with were clearly pained by the fate of folks in the North and the separation that has unnaturally split the Korean people.

There are also some economic challenges in the South. For example, productivity growth in agriculture and the retail sector greatly lags that of the industrial sector. Another example is duality in the labor market, whereby workers for large industrial firms benefit from stable and relatively well compensated employment while workers in smaller establishments may face much tougher conditions of employment. However, these are challenges that arise partly because much of the rest of the economy is surging forward.

Our visit to Korea left us with a very positive impression. From the beautiful landscapes, and warm welcomes, to traditional arts, good food and interesting cultural experiences, we found ourselves being pulled in and wanting to see and do more. A main conclusion from our trip is that we need a lot more time in Korea!

Photos

Linked below is a gallery with a sampler of landscapes, cultural sites and food, as well as some glimpses of the economic progress.

(Use the arrows to scroll up or down, click on the photos to see a full edition)

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Traditional Korean folk village stay

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Hahoe: A traditional Korean folk village

During a traditional Korean folk village stay, one of the first things that one notices in the evening are the crickets. Especially if you come from Paris, the contrast is striking.

With their song as a backdrop, one tends to lower the voice and to speak in warm tones. Here in Andong, Korea, in a traditional village called Hahoe, the pace is calm and the echo of tradition a bit more clear than in the city. Situated at a bend in the Nakdong River, beneigth a high cliff, and surrounded by hills and forests, the village has an idyllic setting.

We are staying at an excellent, small, Korean guest home called Rak Ko Jae, which I would recommend to those seeking a glimpse of rural life here in Korea. The food and hospitality are wonderful. The ambiance is a genuine echo of the past, though updated with a few key modern amenities discretely folded into the simple room design (e.g., wi-fi).

Restorative Properties

There is art in the structures and depth in the approach to life that resonates with people, even many who come from different cultures, like me! One can sit under an ancient tree or at a former Confucian study centre and gaze out at the river while pondering what really matters. I’m thinking the experience might help to restore those bruised urban warrior souls who take the time to visit and soak it all in.

The Joys of Meudon Forest in August

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Meudon Forest

August in the greater Paris area is wonderful. Taking care to avoid the main tourist attractions like the Eiffel Tower or Versailles, one will find the rest of the metropolis  transformed. Many of the local denizens head out of town for summer holidays and some of the restaurants and smaller shops close for their annual break. The folks who stay behind seem be calmer and less aggressive. Perhaps there is less stress when the boss is away in Provence for a few weeks? In any event, it is a great time to hike and bike, taking advantage of local green space like the Meudon Forest.

Located just 20 minutes by train (RER C) from the Eiffel Tower, Meudon Forest can easily be reached on foot from the Chaville-Velizy train station. The existence of the forest is an amazing feat of planning, given the various economic and social pressures. In the 1600s, royals cobbled together land that had been hardscrabble farms and replanted it as a hunting reserve. The forest survived the revolution and the dense urbanisation of the surrounding area in modern times. The forest service has even improved the land in some ways to make it more friendly to people (e.g., by developing a network of trails throughout) and wildlife (e.g, by replanting native species in some areas). Wild boar, foxes, weasels and various other creatures roam freely: the two halves of Meudon forest are connected via a short tunnel under a busy road and the habitat is connected to a big, neighboring forest via a wildlife bridge across a large highway.

Meudon Forest now extends for 1100 hectares (2700 acres) and it remains a producing woodland. Occasionally, we see selective logging operations underway, though the forest managers take care to avoid clearcuts and preserve a continuous woodland. Hard to believe that timber, pulpwood and firewood are being harvested just a few miles from the heart of the densely built-up Paris metropolitan area!

During the summer, the contrast between the forest and the build up areas is striking. When I head out for a hike, run or off-road bike adventure, the city can be quite hot, but once I’m into the trails of the forest, the temperature is several degrees cooler. The soil is rich in organic material and absorbs the pounding of feet or wheels. In the quite of August, the birds are quite active and one hears woodpeckers overhead in the old oak trees that the loggers have bypassed. There are woodland smells in the air and wildflowers wherever there is a sunny border.

And, there are occasional wonders to be found. There are two pre-historic monoliths from a people gone thousands of years and whose history is lost to us. (One of my jogging routes passes by one of these monolith rocks; I sometimes stop to place my hands on it to pay my respects and reconnect with the past.) There are also neolithic tomb rocks relocated from Brittany in the 1800s, strangely, by a group of Christian missionaries from that region. There are ponds with various water foul, nutria rodents, and an annual toad migration (a key forest road is closed during the season to protect them). There are foundations of an old chapel and other structures. There are rocky outcrops offering hikers splendid views of Versailles. On occasion, there is a fellow who sits near the edge and plays bongos on a lazy summer evening.

When Fall arrives, the bountiful chestnuts will attract many folks who come out from Paris to reap a harvest, off-road cyclists will reclaim some trails, and horse riders from the local stables will reclaim some others. The occasional loggers will turn up. But, for now, there is peace in Meudon Forest.

View of l’Etang de l’Ursine with Velizy-Villacoublay in the background

Ursine Pond at the edge of Meudon Forest

Map of Chaville showing Meudon Forest (problems viewing? Click here)

(If you receive this via e-mail, you’ll need to go to the Q4TK web site to see the map.)