Taking a train ride across Korea

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We took a train ride across Korea and had a great and a very authentic time! The trip was a package deal via the tour group Haerang. While is it mainly oriented towards Korean travelers (which was part of the attraction for us!), the tour operators take time to ensure that all basic information is available in English and that an English-speaking staff person is available throughout.

Aura Rail Cruise

We took the Aura rail cruise which travels to Gang Neung in the east, then south to Gyeong Ju, then west to Kwang Ju, and then north back to Seoul. The trip is three days and two nights, with stops along the way to see natural sites and historic places, with wonderful meals at various restaurants. The meals included all sorts of seafood, meats, noodles and veggies, with options for more or less spice to be found among the various dishes (i.e., something for everyone). Throughout, there were fun activities that enabled us non-Korean travelers to immerse in Korean culture, including singalongs, games (championship rock, paper, scissors competitions) and more. Of course, there was also the option of retiring to one’s comfortable sleeper cabin on the train, as well, but most folks chose to be involved in most of the activities. By the end of the trip, there was a real sense of comradery among the 34 passengers in our group, including the six of us from outside of Korea. Overall, I found that while the trip was a bit pricey, it provided an excellent value.

 Someday a Haerang train ride across Korea (all the way)

The Haerang trains were originally purchased a few years ago, when it seemed that a thaw with North Korea was going to happen. The owners had hoped to set up a luxury train connection across North Korea, from Seoul to Beijing. Unfortunately, various incidents and tensions have prevented that from happening. But, when it does, I hope to be around to take advantage of the opportunity!

Looking back from Korea

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Looking forward to looking back from Korea

The summer has been a frantic time at the office, with a number of projects at critical stages of development. Almost anything done at an international organization requires collaboration, and I’ve been fortunate to be working with great partners on several continents, as well as across my own organization, the OECD. But, the volume of activity still has my little office swamped. Reference papers, drafts, copies of outgoing publications and other materials are building up to worrying heights. I cringe when the fire brigade members come down the hall. Have I crossed the limit?

All of this activity spans a broad range of substantive issues and highlights the hazards of being a knowledge worker bounced around in the turbulence. We are organizing events to communicate findings of our recent work in Washington, Geneva and Jakarta. There are new analytical projects underway on other unrelated issues. And, there is routine operational work to be done. It takes time to think your way into an issue area and more time to discover the key problems and then tackle them. Sometimes, it is a real challenge to accelerate such a process, even when under pressure; sometimes it is not possible.

So, it was with some relief that I reached several interim milestones on Friday and could squeeze in a September vacation. Based on past experience, I’m thinking that some distance and time away from the frenzy could be therapeutic, a way to restore some perspective on life and what is really important. So, I went airborne. And, I am about to land at Inchon airport and exit into a Sunday morning in Seoul looking forward to looking back from Korea … (to be continued)

Raid at Dieppe, 19 August 1942

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We have often visited the Normandy beaches, but a recent visit to Dieppe on the French coast a bit further North reawakened vague memories of a history class discussion long ago. The subject was the Raid at Dieppe. It was a real jolt to find myself on the beach last week and make the connection, seeing the actual site and learning in more depth the story of what happened on 19 August 1942.

Raid at Dieppe – A Story Pushed Aside by Later, Larger Developments?

In the first few decades after WWII, the war remained fresh in the memories of US veterans and their families. Not everyone could or would talk about it. But, in my Mom’s family, war stories were a common theme at holiday gatherings. With various veterans in the family, we could compare first hand narratives on wars ranging from WWI to Vietnam.

I have vivid childhood memories of family times around my grandparents’ dining room table during the 1960s. There wasn’t enough room for the whole family, so the little kids usually ate on a card table In the living room, sometimes with the TV on. But, once I got to be 9 or 10 years old, I graduated to sit with the adults and could listen in and ask an  occasional question.

It was not all glory. My mom told us how her class cried after the news of Pearl Harbor and the declaration of war. One uncle was wounded in the margins of the Battle of the Bulge. A great uncle died in WWI under murky circumstances. My Dad had photos from a kamikaze attack on his ship. But, other stories were more rowdy, such as an uncle (a sailor) getting detained by communist authorities in Varna while on a port call after the war. My Dad took a rickshaw ride in Shanghai, where his ship made a stop a few months after Japan capitulated.

However, I don’t ever recall hearing about the raid in Dieppe. Perhaps this was due to the limited American involvement. In any event, it wasn’t until high school that the raid at Dieppe came onto my radar screen.

Raid at Dieppe – A Terrible Price

As the Germans were working to fortify the French coast during the course of 1942, the allies felt growing pressure to act. Prior to a full-scale invasion, Churchill and other leaders wanted to demonstrate that offensive moves were possible. They decided a raid would help them to collect intelligence, disrupt the fortification process, damage infrastructure, probe German defensive strategy, and boost morale among the allies. After some delays, the allies decided to act and settled on the date of 19 August 1942.

Canadian forces were given the lead role on the ground, supported by the British and other allies. In addition to numerous memorials honoring the Canadian effort, plaques in Dieppe commemorate French, Polish and US troops who fought and died in the raid. Fifty US Rangers participated, the first US ground troops to see action in the war on the continent.

Although the raid in Dieppe only lasted about 9 hours, it proved to be a disaster for the allies. The planners underestimated the capacity of the city’s defenses and misjudged the slope of the beach and the effects of the rocky shores on the tanks’ mobility. To protect civilians, they failed to provide for adequate initial bombardment. In addition, the landing timings got skewed such that smoke screens had blown away when the troops arrived, pre-emptive strikes to take out key defensive installations were not completed in advance, and forces were not concentrated in the right places. Of the 6000 men on the ground in the raid, over half were killed, wounded or captured.

Nowadays, Dieppe is a sleepy seaside resort, fishing port, and ferry terminal. Wandering in the town and hiking in the surrounding hills, it is hard to believe that such carnage took place here 70 years ago this week. The peace and security of life here now contrasts with this dark past and provides a living testament to the international achievements after WWII in building a new Europe.

 Dieppe Photo Gallery – A Raider’s Perspective

(Trouble viewing this gallery? It can be viewed by going to this Q4TK web page:
Raid at Dieppe permalink)

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Use the arrows to scroll up or down

Additional Reference

  • Here is a link to archival film footage from the battle. (NB, the film title misses the fact that most of the dead and wounded were Canadian and the soundtrack does not reflect the gravity of the images, but it is amazing that this footage is even available considering that there was a desperate war situation going on at the time.)

 For an edition of the page with a map, click here

The Joys of Meudon Forest in August

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Meudon Forest

August in the greater Paris area is wonderful. Taking care to avoid the main tourist attractions like the Eiffel Tower or Versailles, one will find the rest of the metropolis  transformed. Many of the local denizens head out of town for summer holidays and some of the restaurants and smaller shops close for their annual break. The folks who stay behind seem be calmer and less aggressive. Perhaps there is less stress when the boss is away in Provence for a few weeks? In any event, it is a great time to hike and bike, taking advantage of local green space like the Meudon Forest.

Located just 20 minutes by train (RER C) from the Eiffel Tower, Meudon Forest can easily be reached on foot from the Chaville-Velizy train station. The existence of the forest is an amazing feat of planning, given the various economic and social pressures. In the 1600s, royals cobbled together land that had been hardscrabble farms and replanted it as a hunting reserve. The forest survived the revolution and the dense urbanisation of the surrounding area in modern times. The forest service has even improved the land in some ways to make it more friendly to people (e.g., by developing a network of trails throughout) and wildlife (e.g, by replanting native species in some areas). Wild boar, foxes, weasels and various other creatures roam freely: the two halves of Meudon forest are connected via a short tunnel under a busy road and the habitat is connected to a big, neighboring forest via a wildlife bridge across a large highway.

Meudon Forest now extends for 1100 hectares (2700 acres) and it remains a producing woodland. Occasionally, we see selective logging operations underway, though the forest managers take care to avoid clearcuts and preserve a continuous woodland. Hard to believe that timber, pulpwood and firewood are being harvested just a few miles from the heart of the densely built-up Paris metropolitan area!

During the summer, the contrast between the forest and the build up areas is striking. When I head out for a hike, run or off-road bike adventure, the city can be quite hot, but once I’m into the trails of the forest, the temperature is several degrees cooler. The soil is rich in organic material and absorbs the pounding of feet or wheels. In the quite of August, the birds are quite active and one hears woodpeckers overhead in the old oak trees that the loggers have bypassed. There are woodland smells in the air and wildflowers wherever there is a sunny border.

And, there are occasional wonders to be found. There are two pre-historic monoliths from a people gone thousands of years and whose history is lost to us. (One of my jogging routes passes by one of these monolith rocks; I sometimes stop to place my hands on it to pay my respects and reconnect with the past.) There are also neolithic tomb rocks relocated from Brittany in the 1800s, strangely, by a group of Christian missionaries from that region. There are ponds with various water foul, nutria rodents, and an annual toad migration (a key forest road is closed during the season to protect them). There are foundations of an old chapel and other structures. There are rocky outcrops offering hikers splendid views of Versailles. On occasion, there is a fellow who sits near the edge and plays bongos on a lazy summer evening.

When Fall arrives, the bountiful chestnuts will attract many folks who come out from Paris to reap a harvest, off-road cyclists will reclaim some trails, and horse riders from the local stables will reclaim some others. The occasional loggers will turn up. But, for now, there is peace in Meudon Forest.

View of l’Etang de l’Ursine with Velizy-Villacoublay in the background

Ursine Pond at the edge of Meudon Forest

Map of Chaville showing Meudon Forest (problems viewing? Click here)

(If you receive this via e-mail, you’ll need to go to the Q4TK web site to see the map.)

Ideas and the value of international organisations

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Periodic reflection on positive things in life can change one’s attitude for the better and create a more open attitude to new opportunities. I use such reflections to develop my List of Positive Things, which I keep on my iPod and update a few times a week during my commute to work. I sometimes scroll through the list and come away feeling renewed. For example, I’ll do this after a bad day at the office or when looking for ideas for new projects. Among the multitude of topics, the value of international organisations is one that comes up repeatedly.

The value of international organisations: a few entries from my list of positive things

This list is not comprehensive, but rather focuses on the topic of international organisations and ideas. It reflects observations arising from the course of my work at an international organisation (20+ years).

  • International organisations have helped to develop innovation as a field of study in its own right. This provides a powerful, cross-cutting perspective on the economy that can deliver policy insights that otherwise may be missed. The Innovation Strategy initiative of the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) is an example of this type of work.
  • International organisations have supported a vast, on-going wave of research on a range of topics. Analysts will sometimes develop research that is remarkable for its novelty or depth. This can lead to concrete ideas for ways to improve economic performance.  Many papers resulting from this work have been posted on the Social Science Research Network. (I’m grateful to this network for making available and distributing a broad range of papers. Browsing the abstracts, I can follow developments in my field. Some of the material is relevant to my current research and some inspires new research directions.)
  • International dialogue at OECD and other international organisations can lead to creativity and diffusion of ideas. In some cases, this can promote understanding where there was a risk of conflict. Some dialogue happens via the day-to-day operations inside these organisations. Some of it takes place at international conferences and workshops, where various stakeholders come together. 
  • Staff at international organisations, particularly analytical staff, often demonstrate a high level of professional competence. I am continually impressed by the intelligence, dedication and energy that many of my colleagues bring to their work. This is often accompanied by a strong desire to promote development and make the world a better place. There are certainly occasional problems associated with ambition, turf, bureaucratic intrigues and politics (both within the organisations and among their member countries). But, on balance, the staff calibre is high.  
  • Improving government policy: International comparisons and peer review can be powerful catalysts to stimulate positive changes in government. The process of sharing and learning among experts is often catalysed by new insights from staff papers from international organisations. It is great to see this process in operation!

 Bottom line: International organisations can be powerful sources of new ideas for government, private sector, academia and non-governmental organisations. While there is certainly room for improvement in their operations (e.g., via better management practices and evaluation), the contributions of these organisations to making the world a better place should not be underestimated.

 

 

 

Living in the Moment – Floors

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Maybe it is something in my church background that sensitised me to living in the moment. When visiting a new place, especially when entering a building of note, I have a practice of trying to be aware of the architecture and the details of the structure. If the building has particular merit — such as unique architecture or age or spirituality or service as a witness to history, then I try to allow a bit of time to let it soak in.

One of the things I try to do is note the floors. The photo gallery attached below presents a few of the floors that have caught my attention in recent years. They reflect the efforts of people to differentiate the floors of the structures they helped build, in some cases as an act of artistic or religious expression.

Next time you enter a building of note, don’t forget to look down! You may be rewarded with a sight at that moment that provides you with a special connection to the past.

Photo Gallery: Living in the Moment – Floors

(use the arrows below the gallery to scroll up or down)

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Champagne in and around Epernay

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A recent weekend found us out on a quest to find the ideal champagne in and around Epernay. Our objective was to find bottles with contents having the right balance of top quality, dryness, affordability and tradition.

Thus, we set out for the town of Epernay, an important hub in the Champagne region located about 2 hours or less from Paris. A small city, it is easy to get around with nice pedestrian zones and an awe-inspiring collection of world-class champagne houses. I find Epernay more manageable than Reims, which is a much larger place with more of an urban feel. Three wineries really stood out to me:

  • Moet et Chandon, founded in 1743, is at the base of the prestigious Avenue de Champagne in Epernay. It still occupies some of the original buildings and is an elegant place with a great tour of the wine cellars. There are roughly 17km (10+ miles) of tunnels carved into the soft limestone rock under the facility, which keeps the wine cool and at a constant temperature year round. Just right for aging! Among other quality wines, Moet et Chandon produces a fine dry (brut) champagne under their “imperial” brand, as well as the famous and very pricey Dom Perignon (from a separate winery).
  • Alfred Gratien is a smaller house, with a long tradition and a third generation wine-maker in place. Gradually upgrading technologically (thanks to foreign investment), this house is still maintaining traditions like oak barrel aging of the wine as part of the vinification process. Their brut classique is a dry champagne, a fine balance of price and quality! I also like their blanc de blancs, which is made only from white grapes (Chardonnay) and has a fresh and fruity nose. Although a small house, they are exporting increasing volumes to the USA.
  • A short drive from Epernay is the Mailly winery, which offers a variety of champagne from top growing areas (grand crus). Their brut reserve is a great value and I would highly recommend it. For a splurge, I was very much intrigued by their Echansons champagne, which has a wonderful nose with almonds, citrus and other fruit, and even a hint of vanilla and bread when first opened. From a weekend in Epernay and Reims, and half a dozen tastings, I found Mailly to be tops for my pallet.

This quest was complemented by some very nice meals along the way. One can eat very well in Champagne! (For a very special occasion, I’d recommend Le Grand Cerf, which is a bit pricey, but of excellent quality!)

And, though there are towns named “Bouzy” and “Dizy”, the Champagne region is not just about drink and food. The countryside is beautiful! There are some great hikes and strolls to be had in and around the vineyards, as well as lots of history from Roman times to the two world wars and beyond. A nice outing, not far away from Epernay, is the historic village of Hautvillers. We stopped there to pay homage in the Abbey church where the original Dom Perignon — a Benedictine monk who developed an improved champagne method — was laid to rest in 1715. (Upon realising his discovery, he is said to have exclaimed, “Come quickly, I am drinking the stars.”, but that is probably apocryphal. )

Whether you have an opportunity to visit or simply a chance to have a glass of champagne, Epernay and its environs have something to offer for you!

Map of Epernay (Problems viewing the map? Then click here)

 

Alfred Bergere Winery in Epernay

Oregon Photo Sampler: Highlights Of A Great Outdoors Tour, June 2012

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Oregon always seems to amaze me and my recent visit fit the pattern. The Oregon Photo Sampler, linked below, presents a quick view of some of the wonders of this great state. There are extremes of nature from the cold Pacific to rugged volcanoes and then on to the high desert. Summer conditions in Oregon can confound expectations: deep snow in June on the mountains, heat and clear blue skies in the valleys, and rainy days in the high desert (when you might have expected the sun). When you set out on an adventure, you need to be prepared for contingencies. Still, the sights, sounds and smells are conducive to an active lifestyle. It is glorious!

The slides in this Oregon Photo Sampler are from a great circle tour of Oregon. We set out in mid-June, starting out at Crater Lake, then over to Bend in the center, and John Day in the East, before returning through the Cascade Mountains to the Pacific coast via Portland. We always eat and drink well in Oregon. This aspect of life in Oregon pairs well with the outdoor activity. So, along with the photos of nature, I’ve thrown in a few photos of food and drink at the end of the slideshow.

If you are thinking of visiting, the Travel Oregon site provides a nice overview and offers some tips. As you skim the site it will soon be evident that, as they say, Oregon isn’t a place just “to see”. It is also a place “to do” and experience. More than once I’ve found myself drawn outdoors on days that would have kept me indoors back home in Paris.

Enjoy!

Oregon Photo Sampler

(If you are using a desktop computer, click on the little green square below the lower right-hand corner of the photo for a full screen view.)

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Urban Bike Commuters Unite! Velib, Paris

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Whenever I’ve lived in an urban area, I’ve always been a dedicated user of public transportation. In Paris, I’ve continued this practice on a near daily basis in my commute to work and sometimes on my days off, too. The dense network of trains, metro and buses  has a great structure that generally helps to get you where you need to go in an efficient manner. The metro and buses (traffic permitting) offer a decent standard of service. The suburban trains, however, can be vulnerable to strikes, weather outages and other disruptions. As I live just outside of town (7 miles from the Eiffel tower), I depend on suburban trains (RER C) and this can lead to some frustration.

And then a few years ago, Paris launched a system of rental bikes called Velib. Velib has proven to be a great idea! The urban bike system was developed by a private firm (JC Decaux) on space made available by the city. In exchange for developing and operating the system, JC Decaux gets public advertising space around town. The system now has more than 20000 bikes and 1400 stations around Paris. The city of Paris has developed some 400 KM of bikeways (nearly 250 miles ), which helps riders to avoid motor vehicle traffic on many routes. For 30 euros (the equivalent of about 40 dollars) per year, a rider can get a pass with unlimited free rides of up to 1/2 hour at a time. A rider pays a small surcharge for going a bit over time (1 euro for the first 1/2 hour of overtime).

The result is a system that operates with private sector efficiency, at minimal public sector expense, yet with public policy objectives in mind (easing movement of people, promoting  health benefits, reducing pollution and congestion, etc). While I still need to take a train into town, the system enabled me to cut 20 minutes off of my commute (each way, each day) and avoid an often frustrating connection in town on the suburban train. In a recent month, I got more than 8 hours of additional exercise thanks to Velib (the system keeps track for you). And, somebody else is responsible for the maintenance and security of the bikes I use. No longer do I have to worry about bike theft or fixing flats. (You do need to keep in mind safety and remember to wear a helmet and some reflective material.) Now, instead of being underground, I am actually in touch with the city. I see more of the world around me and I arrive at the office feeling invigorated.

Here is a short overview that presents Velib (updated in Dec 2017). The Velib system does face some challenges. In a city with hills, it is difficult to keep the distribution of bikes aligned (people prefer to ride one way, down hill). The most difficult to reach stations provide credits to those who pedal up to them and JC Decaux does some bike redistribution during the day, but it is not enough. There is also a problem with vandalism (high youth unemployment, for example, can lead to bored and frustrated kids). And, there is a lack of parking slots at many of the most used stations. This can leave a rider wandering from station to station looking for a parking place to return the bike (or, conversely, lacking any available bikes at rush hour).

Here, I have some important advice for fellow Velib users and a plea for solidarity: If you face a lack of parking at a station, go to the automated kiosk and flash your badge and then follow the instructions to validate. The system will grant you 15 minutes of credit to give you a chance to get to the next available station. A map will indicate these on the kiosk screen. This is good for you personally. But, also, if enough of us frustrated riders continue demanding this credit, which costs the system operators, then maybe they will build additional parking places. For too long I wasn’t aware of this and continued to pedal at my own expense in such situations!

If you live in the Paris area and haven’t yet discovered the system, I’d encourage you to give Velib a try. If you live in another city without such a system, why not press your public officials to consider one. Meanwhile, here’s wishing you “happy trails”!

Update, 2 August: For perspectives on biking in London, check out this blog posting from the Economist’s Blighty Blog, “Safer than you think”.

Good Life in France

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Good life in France

I love to have a weekday off in France. It provides a great opportunity to see how folks go about their daily routines. Today was just such a day of annual leave for me. So, I headed out to the countryside to buy fresh provisions at a nearby farm and dairy and to have a traditional lunch at one of my favorite “down home” type restaurants — the Hotel de Paris in Bievres. Ah, the good life in France!

Lunchtime at Hotel de Paris

The fare is very French with a daily menu of steak tatare, blood sausage, and such. I generally opt for the confit de canard (duck) with a nice glass of hardy Cotes du Rhone wine. Today, as I felt a bit like celebrating, I went not only for the duck, but also a lemon tart with meringue, topped off with an espresso.

A feeling of well-being was in the air, heightened by the general atmosphere. The weather was mild with poofy clouds crossing a blue sky. There were flowers in the boxes along the street, the doors and windows of the restaurant were all open, and the terrace in front was filled with folks on their lunch hour enjoying a glass of beer or wine along with the menu of the day. The mood was social and friendly. What a great escape from the various woes of the workplace!

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