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From Orsigny to Viltain Sunday – The late summer weather around Paris has been spectacular: low humidity and cool temps with warm sun and blue skies. Today, I could not resist taking a few hours for myself and heading out on … Continue reading
We have often visited the Normandy beaches, but a recent visit to Dieppe on the French coast a bit further North reawakened vague memories of a history class discussion long ago. The subject was the Raid at Dieppe. It was a real jolt to find myself on the beach last week and make the connection, seeing the actual site and learning in more depth the story of what happened on 19 August 1942.
In the first few decades after WWII, the war remained fresh in the memories of US veterans and their families. Not everyone could or would talk about it. But, in my Mom’s family, war stories were a common theme at holiday gatherings. With various veterans in the family, we could compare first hand narratives on wars ranging from WWI to Vietnam.
I have vivid childhood memories of family times around my grandparents’ dining room table during the 1960s. There wasn’t enough room for the whole family, so the little kids usually ate on a card table In the living room, sometimes with the TV on. But, once I got to be 9 or 10 years old, I graduated to sit with the adults and could listen in and ask an occasional question.
It was not all glory. My mom told us how her class cried after the news of Pearl Harbor and the declaration of war. One uncle was wounded in the margins of the Battle of the Bulge. A great uncle died in WWI under murky circumstances. My Dad had photos from a kamikaze attack on his ship. But, other stories were more rowdy, such as an uncle (a sailor) getting detained by communist authorities in Varna while on a port call after the war. My Dad took a rickshaw ride in Shanghai, where his ship made a stop a few months after Japan capitulated.
However, I don’t ever recall hearing about the raid in Dieppe. Perhaps this was due to the limited American involvement. In any event, it wasn’t until high school that the raid at Dieppe came onto my radar screen.
As the Germans were working to fortify the French coast during the course of 1942, the allies felt growing pressure to act. Prior to a full-scale invasion, Churchill and other leaders wanted to demonstrate that offensive moves were possible. They decided a raid would help them to collect intelligence, disrupt the fortification process, damage infrastructure, probe German defensive strategy, and boost morale among the allies. After some delays, the allies decided to act and settled on the date of 19 August 1942.
Canadian forces were given the lead role on the ground, supported by the British and other allies. In addition to numerous memorials honoring the Canadian effort, plaques in Dieppe commemorate French, Polish and US troops who fought and died in the raid. Fifty US Rangers participated, the first US ground troops to see action in the war on the continent.
Although the raid in Dieppe only lasted about 9 hours, it proved to be a disaster for the allies. The planners underestimated the capacity of the city’s defenses and misjudged the slope of the beach and the effects of the rocky shores on the tanks’ mobility. To protect civilians, they failed to provide for adequate initial bombardment. In addition, the landing timings got skewed such that smoke screens had blown away when the troops arrived, pre-emptive strikes to take out key defensive installations were not completed in advance, and forces were not concentrated in the right places. Of the 6000 men on the ground in the raid, over half were killed, wounded or captured.
Nowadays, Dieppe is a sleepy seaside resort, fishing port, and ferry terminal. Wandering in the town and hiking in the surrounding hills, it is hard to believe that such carnage took place here 70 years ago this week. The peace and security of life here now contrasts with this dark past and provides a living testament to the international achievements after WWII in building a new Europe.
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August in the greater Paris area is wonderful. Taking care to avoid the main tourist attractions like the Eiffel Tower or Versailles, one will find the rest of the metropolis transformed. Many of the local denizens head out of town for summer holidays and some of the restaurants and smaller shops close for their annual break. The folks who stay behind seem be calmer and less aggressive. Perhaps there is less stress when the boss is away in Provence for a few weeks? In any event, it is a great time to hike and bike, taking advantage of local green space like the Meudon Forest.
Located just 20 minutes by train (RER C) from the Eiffel Tower, Meudon Forest can easily be reached on foot from the Chaville-Velizy train station. The existence of the forest is an amazing feat of planning, given the various economic and social pressures. In the 1600s, royals cobbled together land that had been hardscrabble farms and replanted it as a hunting reserve. The forest survived the revolution and the dense urbanisation of the surrounding area in modern times. The forest service has even improved the land in some ways to make it more friendly to people (e.g., by developing a network of trails throughout) and wildlife (e.g, by replanting native species in some areas). Wild boar, foxes, weasels and various other creatures roam freely: the two halves of Meudon forest are connected via a short tunnel under a busy road and the habitat is connected to a big, neighboring forest via a wildlife bridge across a large highway.
Meudon Forest now extends for 1100 hectares (2700 acres) and it remains a producing woodland. Occasionally, we see selective logging operations underway, though the forest managers take care to avoid clearcuts and preserve a continuous woodland. Hard to believe that timber, pulpwood and firewood are being harvested just a few miles from the heart of the densely built-up Paris metropolitan area!
During the summer, the contrast between the forest and the build up areas is striking. When I head out for a hike, run or off-road bike adventure, the city can be quite hot, but once I’m into the trails of the forest, the temperature is several degrees cooler. The soil is rich in organic material and absorbs the pounding of feet or wheels. In the quite of August, the birds are quite active and one hears woodpeckers overhead in the old oak trees that the loggers have bypassed. There are woodland smells in the air and wildflowers wherever there is a sunny border.
And, there are occasional wonders to be found. There are two pre-historic monoliths from a people gone thousands of years and whose history is lost to us. (One of my jogging routes passes by one of these monolith rocks; I sometimes stop to place my hands on it to pay my respects and reconnect with the past.) There are also neolithic tomb rocks relocated from Brittany in the 1800s, strangely, by a group of Christian missionaries from that region. There are ponds with various water foul, nutria rodents, and an annual toad migration (a key forest road is closed during the season to protect them). There are foundations of an old chapel and other structures. There are rocky outcrops offering hikers splendid views of Versailles. On occasion, there is a fellow who sits near the edge and plays bongos on a lazy summer evening.
When Fall arrives, the bountiful chestnuts will attract many folks who come out from Paris to reap a harvest, off-road cyclists will reclaim some trails, and horse riders from the local stables will reclaim some others. The occasional loggers will turn up. But, for now, there is peace in Meudon Forest.
(If you receive this via e-mail, you’ll need to go to the Q4TK web site to see the map.)
I love to have a weekday off in France. It provides a great opportunity to see how folks go about their daily routines. Today was just such a day of annual leave for me. So, I headed out to the countryside to buy fresh provisions at a nearby farm and dairy and to have a traditional lunch at one of my favorite “down home” type restaurants — the Hotel de Paris in Bievres. Ah, the good life in France!
The fare is very French with a daily menu of steak tatare, blood sausage, and such. I generally opt for the confit de canard (duck) with a nice glass of hardy Cotes du Rhone wine. Today, as I felt a bit like celebrating, I went not only for the duck, but also a lemon tart with meringue, topped off with an espresso.
A feeling of well-being was in the air, heightened by the general atmosphere. The weather was mild with poofy clouds crossing a blue sky. There were flowers in the boxes along the street, the doors and windows of the restaurant were all open, and the terrace in front was filled with folks on their lunch hour enjoying a glass of beer or wine along with the menu of the day. The mood was social and friendly. What a great escape from the various woes of the workplace!
Hike along the Bievre RiverI love to hike along the Bievre River on the Chemin des Prés de Vauboyen (Vauboyen meadow path), which has a great rural feel. By rail, it is perhaps 45 minutes from Paris on the RER C line. A nice hike is to get off at the Vauboyen station and walk along the meadow and river to the town of Bievre. In the centre of the little town (up the hill to your left, when hiking from Vauboyen), you’ll find the Café de Paris, which serves up a nice traditional lunch, reasonably priced. Makes for an excellent weekend outing and a chance to reconnect with nature!
Here is a satellite image that gives an idea of the bucolic nature of the area…
(If map does not display correctly, then click here)
Saturday was a gorgeous sunny day and spontaneously we headed out to the Loire Valley on a wine scouting expedition. It is beautiful countryside and after the spring rains, everything would be lush. Plus, we had an idea for a new destination: I’d just heard about the Domaine de Veilloux winery close to Cheverny, a town that is one of my traditional haunts.
The Domaine de Veilloux winery caught my attention because of its fully organic approach to agriculture. They even have one brand of wine without additional sulfites, designed to be drunk young. Sulfite supplements are generally considered essential for protecting wine that is to be laid down.
The wines proved to be delightful. The whites are sauvignon-based blends, which include a new variety for me called menu pineau (a local Loire variety) and other grapes. The reds are pinot noir-based, blended with côt malbec and other varieties. Red or white, most of the wines are fresh and light, with nice fruit out front, just right for the approaching summer. We also appreciated the wines labelled Les Veilleurs, which come from older vines and which were a bit more complex and subtle.
Domaine de Veilloux wines are mostly sold in France, but are also exported to Japan, other parts of Europe and the US. Recommended!
Steeplechase had its origins in the first half of the 1800s as cross-country races in Ireland and the UK. The various obstacles are meant to mimic the hazards one might encounter in such a race going town to town. Steeplechase soon caught on in France, too. The Gras Savoye Grand Steeple-Chase de Paris is the most prestigious steeplechase race in France, with the largest purse (850,000 euros). It’s run at the Auteuil racecourse and is quite a cultural phenomenon. With an advance coupon, entry is free and all sorts of people turn up. It is great to see a broad range of people taking advantage of this, sharing the fun. The true “horse people” get all dressed up, the ladies wearing great hats!
