Tag Archives: Korea

Impressions and photos from a visit to Korea

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Impressions and photos from a visit to Korea

Rounding out my recent series of blog posts, I would like to offer a few further impressions and photos from a visit to Korea (Republic of Korea). During our trip, we toured the periphery of the country and then spent a couple of days in the center (Andong) and a few days in Seoul, as well as taking a tour to the border with North Korea (i.e., the demilitarized zone, DMZ). Based on these travels, I can recommend the Haerang Rail Cruise and Rak Ko Jae traditional B&B stays to anyone seeking an authentic experience in Korea.

We have a few connections to Korea through my work (Korea joined the OECD in 1996), my wife’s family (who lived in Korea for several years), and via friends. This gave us some insights and notions as to what to expect, as well as some contacts. Still, Korea is developing and changing rapidly, so much of what we encountered was new to us and there is — in any event — a tremendous amount for a traveler to explore and discover.

We found the country to be very accessible. Some Koreans have had experience in the United States via their education or work and many others have studied some English. Many signs and menus are in English as well. So, we were able to get by with English and a Korean phrase book. Nonetheless, outside of Seoul, we found it very helpful to have a guide.

Initial impressions

The dynamism of Korea is impressive. Economic growth is modernizing many aspects of life. Construction seems to be booming. Cultural sites and traditions are being renewed. Innovation is valued and is being pushed forward on many fronts ranging from smartphones to K-pop music. Most people we encountered radiated optimism and a healthy confidence, as well as good humor. Other countries in the region have taken note. For example, Korean soap operas and music are popular across Asia and beyond (e.g., this wild K-Pop music video by Psy has had more than 255 millions hits). All of this seems to me in striking contrast with the gloom that in recent years sometimes seems to hang in the air in Western Europe or the United States.

There remain some significant challenges for Korea. Most notably, the terrible situation in North Korea is a clear concern. In addition to the strain on the South from provocations and threats by the North, many people we spoke with were clearly pained by the fate of folks in the North and the separation that has unnaturally split the Korean people.

There are also some economic challenges in the South. For example, productivity growth in agriculture and the retail sector greatly lags that of the industrial sector. Another example is duality in the labor market, whereby workers for large industrial firms benefit from stable and relatively well compensated employment while workers in smaller establishments may face much tougher conditions of employment. However, these are challenges that arise partly because much of the rest of the economy is surging forward.

Our visit to Korea left us with a very positive impression. From the beautiful landscapes, and warm welcomes, to traditional arts, good food and interesting cultural experiences, we found ourselves being pulled in and wanting to see and do more. A main conclusion from our trip is that we need a lot more time in Korea!

Photos

Linked below is a gallery with a sampler of landscapes, cultural sites and food, as well as some glimpses of the economic progress.

(Use the arrows to scroll up or down, click on the photos to see a full edition)

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Traditional Korean folk village stay

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Hahoe: A traditional Korean folk village

During a traditional Korean folk village stay, one of the first things that one notices in the evening are the crickets. Especially if you come from Paris, the contrast is striking.

With their song as a backdrop, one tends to lower the voice and to speak in warm tones. Here in Andong, Korea, in a traditional village called Hahoe, the pace is calm and the echo of tradition a bit more clear than in the city. Situated at a bend in the Nakdong River, beneigth a high cliff, and surrounded by hills and forests, the village has an idyllic setting.

We are staying at an excellent, small, Korean guest home called Rak Ko Jae, which I would recommend to those seeking a glimpse of rural life here in Korea. The food and hospitality are wonderful. The ambiance is a genuine echo of the past, though updated with a few key modern amenities discretely folded into the simple room design (e.g., wi-fi).

Restorative Properties

There is art in the structures and depth in the approach to life that resonates with people, even many who come from different cultures, like me! One can sit under an ancient tree or at a former Confucian study centre and gaze out at the river while pondering what really matters. I’m thinking the experience might help to restore those bruised urban warrior souls who take the time to visit and soak it all in.

A few random musings while sitting in Seoul, Korea

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Sitting in Seoul

Just sitting in Seoul, Korea, one can see that it is an amazing case study in development. There is evidence all around demonstrating that economic and social policy can make a difference.

Seoul, the capital, is huge, clean and modern, while also keeping alive its traditions and remembering its past. The city is bursting with entrepreneurial activity, public investment in infrastructure and education, cultural initiatives, new housing and much more.

During an hour-long stroll in Seoul, one can encounter sprawling markets, wonderful palaces, great food, world-class museums, and quaint leafy lanes. But, the city is expansive, and there are many worthwhile hour-long strolls to be had around various neighborhoods such as Bukchon, Etaewan or Insadong (to name just a few).

For optimal enjoyment, you will want to take your time and allow for a bit of serendipity. There might be something interesting just around the corner, such as a fine old tea room. And, sometimes it is interesting just to stop a while in the shade and watch the city go by.

A few decades ago, Korea was war-torn and poor. Now, the country is counted among the advanced nations of the world. And, Seoul is a fine showcase for this progress!

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Taking a train ride across Korea

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We took a train ride across Korea and had a great and a very authentic time! The trip was a package deal via the tour group Haerang. While is it mainly oriented towards Korean travelers (which was part of the attraction for us!), the tour operators take time to ensure that all basic information is available in English and that an English-speaking staff person is available throughout.

Aura Rail Cruise

We took the Aura rail cruise which travels to Gang Neung in the east, then south to Gyeong Ju, then west to Kwang Ju, and then north back to Seoul. The trip is three days and two nights, with stops along the way to see natural sites and historic places, with wonderful meals at various restaurants. The meals included all sorts of seafood, meats, noodles and veggies, with options for more or less spice to be found among the various dishes (i.e., something for everyone). Throughout, there were fun activities that enabled us non-Korean travelers to immerse in Korean culture, including singalongs, games (championship rock, paper, scissors competitions) and more. Of course, there was also the option of retiring to one’s comfortable sleeper cabin on the train, as well, but most folks chose to be involved in most of the activities. By the end of the trip, there was a real sense of comradery among the 34 passengers in our group, including the six of us from outside of Korea. Overall, I found that while the trip was a bit pricey, it provided an excellent value.

 Someday a Haerang train ride across Korea (all the way)

The Haerang trains were originally purchased a few years ago, when it seemed that a thaw with North Korea was going to happen. The owners had hoped to set up a luxury train connection across North Korea, from Seoul to Beijing. Unfortunately, various incidents and tensions have prevented that from happening. But, when it does, I hope to be around to take advantage of the opportunity!

Looking back from Korea

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Looking forward to looking back from Korea

The summer has been a frantic time at the office, with a number of projects at critical stages of development. Almost anything done at an international organization requires collaboration, and I’ve been fortunate to be working with great partners on several continents, as well as across my own organization, the OECD. But, the volume of activity still has my little office swamped. Reference papers, drafts, copies of outgoing publications and other materials are building up to worrying heights. I cringe when the fire brigade members come down the hall. Have I crossed the limit?

All of this activity spans a broad range of substantive issues and highlights the hazards of being a knowledge worker bounced around in the turbulence. We are organizing events to communicate findings of our recent work in Washington, Geneva and Jakarta. There are new analytical projects underway on other unrelated issues. And, there is routine operational work to be done. It takes time to think your way into an issue area and more time to discover the key problems and then tackle them. Sometimes, it is a real challenge to accelerate such a process, even when under pressure; sometimes it is not possible.

So, it was with some relief that I reached several interim milestones on Friday and could squeeze in a September vacation. Based on past experience, I’m thinking that some distance and time away from the frenzy could be therapeutic, a way to restore some perspective on life and what is really important. So, I went airborne. And, I am about to land at Inchon airport and exit into a Sunday morning in Seoul looking forward to looking back from Korea … (to be continued)